The Nissan Path

So, you like your Bose system except for the "brat-brat" noise coming from your subwoofer? Well, Nissan won't sell you the speakers unless you purchase the expensive subwoofer assembly. You could get them repaired; Simply Speakers does this service but the shipping cost makes it a little pricey. That's what I did when my 2008 SE blew a subwoofer speaker and the cost was around $55 when done, if I remember correctly. For $60, you can get a brand new subwoofer speaker direct from Bose (or two for $120). Why not just get some aftermarket speakers for the subwoofer? Well, the 1-ohm impedance speakers are square and sit into a recessed area of the subwoofer box. So, earlier in the year I contacted Bose Corp. and purchased a pair of new speakers and finally I got a chance to put them in! To get in touch with Bose Corp., you can send an email to [email protected] or call them, 1-800-379-2073.




You'll need some basic tools:
10MM socket/ratchet/extension
Flat-blade screwdriver
Pin puller or panel tool
1/4" socket or nutdriver
14MM wrench or rathet/14MM socket

I used my Milwaukee 3/8" drive cordless ratchet, but don't use them on the speaker screws because they'll break (don''t ask how I know).





First, if you have any, you have to get the junk out of your trunk! Fold down the third row seats and put the second row seats in the up position as pictured. Remove the panel over the jack and the two, 10MM head bolts that attach the gap cover behind the third row seat, as pictured.





You'll see a knob with a handle on it on the left panel; use a screwdriver to pop the top up and pull the knob out. You'll also see four knobs used as attachment points for the side net; turn and remove them (you may need to use pliers or Channel-locks on them, but wrap a rag around it first so you don't damage the plastic).








There are three, latch points on the bottom of the panel and another on the C-pillar. Use the screwdriver to pop up the plastic cover. Then, you can push the cover through the latch loop to make it easier to access the 10MM head bolt. Remove the bolt and pull out the latch point assembly.







The seat belts have 14MM head bolts. One will have a boot end that you pull up to access the bolt, while the other has a clip on cover that you can pull off by hand. I break the bolts loose with the ratchet wrench and socket and then use the cordless ratchet to speed up the process.



Use the screwdriver or a panel tool to pop out the cover to reveal a hidden, 10MM head bolt. Remove the bolt.




Remove the scuff plate at the driver's side, rear door. Mine came up by hand, but you may need a panel tool or screwdriver on stubborn ones. Once removed, grab the welt moulding and pull off the edge enough to clear the panel you are removing.







At the back of the vehicle, pull up on the cargo area scuff plate/finisher and remove. You may need to go back with a panel tool and pull up some of the push-pins that decided to stay on the truck rather than come up with the panel. Once removed, install the push-pins in their proper location on the finisher. Next, grab the welt moulding and pull off the pinch weld and away from the left interior quarter finisher.




You can now begin to use the panel tool to carefully pop the push clip out of the sheet metal and both ends. BTW, the cup holder does not have to be removed. Now, the FSM will tell you to remove the third row seat, but you don't have to do that. You will need to move the left, third row seat back up and down a few times as you maneuver the rear quarter finisher up and out.







Pull the lower quarter finisher to disengage the upper finisher and maneuver the quarter finisher out and then set aside. Take your time, moving the third seat back as needed for room and be careful not to break or damage the panel. Once out of the way, you will see the subwoofer box.




Four, 1/4" head screws hold the speaker in place. Remove the screws and pull the speaker out. Pull the wires, one with a larger terminal and one with a smaller terminal, off of the speaker connections.



If you take your finger and gently tap the speaker cone, you may be able to determine which speaker is bad by the noise it makes. That was the case for me and when I inspected the speaker, I found a crack in the dome of the speaker.




Connect the leads to the new speaker(s) and set in place; there are two locator pins that will engage holes in the speaker. Use a 1/4" nutdriver or similar tool to install the bolts and tighten by hand. Once in the subwoofer box, you may want to test the speakers before you get it all back together. In my case, I cranked-up the Five Finger Death Punch and determined all was well! Next, just reverse procedure to install the panel and get it all back together again! It may take a little while the first time, but once you've done it, you'll realize it really isn't that bad of a job. The procedure is also similar on the right side, quarter finisher, which covers the rear HVAC system.

Great timing. I have to open up the right side to fix the HVAC. Replace the blower controller.

Will do some pics also.

OregonPath wrote:Great timing. I have to open up the right side to fix the HVAC. Replace the blower controller.

Will do some pics also.

Yeah, I had to do that on my 2008. Procedure isn't much different than the left side. There is just enough room to get the blower amp out of there without removing the HVAC. The updated blower amps have a larger heat sink than the original. On the aftermarket, both styles are sold, so try and get the updated style if you are not going genuine Nissan.

Great write up. Thanks.

One of the woofers blew on our 2011 Pathfinder LE 4x4. I called Bose today and long story short, they won't sell me these and referred me back to the dealer. I talked to three different people in Bose. Oh yeah, they shut down the [email protected] email address as well.

I guess I will have to get them reconditioned at a speaker shop.

Just wanted to provide an update to the community.

You could always get one from a junkyard. They were used in R51 and R52 Pathy's with the Bose subwoofer. They were also used in the Infiniti version of the R52 and I wouldn't be surprised if they were in Armadas and some other models, as well.

I do have a good, used one that I've been keeping for a spare. I'd be willing to sell it for $25+shipping, which would be about another $12 to Florida. I can take payment via paypal, if you're interested.

Thanks. I appreciate the offer.

It turns out that I found a relatively local speaker repair shop. South Florida Speaker Repair Inc. Their website is speaker saver - https://www.speakersaver.com/

It was a 40 minute drive from my place. Seemed legit over the phone. Turns out that the shop is in an old strip mall and doesn't look like much. But it is filled with tons of speakers and amplifiers and audio equipment. If you are an audiofile, you would probably be in heaven. I am only a 1/2 of an old stuff geek and I wanted to spend a day in there. Anyway, the dust cap was loose on one of the woofers. I had the bad one fixed and the second one serviced in the same way so it won't suffer the same fate. He fixed them while I waited and charged me a grand total of $10. That's TEN Dollars - no typo.

I don't know if he would do work by the mail. Anyone in the community here could call him to find out if you run into a problem with your subwoofers.

Listen, I am not saying he will fix anything for $10. But from my experience, they know what they are doing and are total straight shooters and honest and more than fair on pricing.

And if I didn't say it already, let me say it. Thanks so much for the post and detailed write up on this. Certainly saved me a lot of time.

My first speaker was repaired by a place called "Simple Speaker" and I believe that was in Florida, as well. I had the same issue as you and they re-glued it. Still working fine after about 4-years or so. Only issue for me that with the shipping cost, it was only a little bit cheaper than getting a brand new speaker from Bose at the time. Glad you got it sorted out! Can't beat a $10 repair!

Yeah, my first approach was to just purchase two new subs from Bose. But they wouldn't sell them to me and don't sell them anymore. I spoke with three different people at Bose. In the end they referred me to the Nissan Dealer.

It turns out that I saved a lot of money by Bose not wanting to take my money in the first place! I also learned something. Not sure I will ever buy a new speaker for anything ever again - just get older, quality ones repaired.