The Nissan Path

Has anyone replaced the sunroof motor? If so how difficult is it? If it is not too bad or the motor is not in some ridiculous spot where I have to drop the headliner I would like to replace it. Thanks!

The motor is easy-peasy, it's right above the roof console. See RF-53 here for the exploded drawing and R&I instructions:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 9%2FRF.pdf

However, I should point out that the motors fail once in a blue moon. The built-in controllers don't let the motors stall for very long, so they don't tend to suffer failures from frequent over-current like window motors. Trouble with slow or balky operation is almost always from mechanical binding in the guides, sliders or frame, not the motor.

Since you said the motor goes out rarely, how would I diagnose what is wrong with it? So the sunroof is closed (and watertight) so I'm not sure if I really want to take it apart to fix it. Is there a fuse specifically for the sunroof or is it tied into the window fuse? I have read the service manual and it is kind of lacking on the sunroof aside from install and the motor replacement.

No fuse, but it does share the circuit breaker with the Power Seats. If your seat still works, that isn't it. To check it, pull down the overhead console and first make sure the motor has power, ground and ignition signals. The right tool is a test lamp. At the motor connector, the Pink wire on pin 7 should have Battery+, the Black wire on pin 10 should be ground. The Orange wire on pin 9 is the RAP supply (retained power) and serves as the ignition signal, it should go live with the key and dead with the key off and driver's door open. Pink and Orange should both light the lamp when checked to a body ground and when checked to pin 10. If they don't light to pin 10 or light dimly, the ground is bad.

If that's all good, check that the switch signals are getting to the motor controller. Use a voltmeter and back-probe the wires with the motor connected. Pin 1 Sky Blue and pin 5 Red are the switch signals. Each should read some voltage (something between 5~12V) with the switch inactive and go to 0V when the switch is pushed. If not, you have a bad switch.

If that checks out, take the motor loose from the roof and work the switch to see if it spins. If it doesn't then the motor is bad, if it does then your roof is jammed.