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Hub bearing replacement question

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 10:01 am
by ShipFixer
About to change out my right front hub bearing and had at least one question - should I put the truck in 4WD before I try to take the axle but off or does it not matter? I.e. will the hub spin freely when I try to back the but off or not.

Also if anyone has tips or tricks on this one I'd appreciate it, already looking at the How-To from clubfrontier.com.

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 11:23 am
by disallow
You could do a couple things, Leaving 4wd on might help, but probably not, as the 'free wheel' will still spin.

1. If possible, use impact tools.

2. If you don't have access to air tools, you can loosen the big nut with the tire on the ground. This can be accomplished by either knocking out the center cap on your rim (piece of plastic can be pushed out from the inside and put back in when you are done), or installing the spare which has a hole in the middle of it. Then you can get your socket and breaker bar, and a perhaps even a long pipe (backyard mechanic's favorite tool!) on it to loosen it off.

I found my impact chisel was really helpful on this job, and I was able to vibrate the hub off of the bearing race quiet easily. It was rusted on there pretty good.

Make sure to clean up the surfaces of any corrosion once you have the hub off. Any loose rust, wire brush it off. Spray down with penetrating oil or something of that nature to clean it, then wipe with a rag.

When installing the new hub, start the bolts off one at a time, then tighten each a little at a time to ensure the hub centers on the shaft properly and seats where its supposed to.

Hope that helps. Will try to find my post from when I did the exact same job you are about to about 2 years ago.

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 11:33 am
by disallow
http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=5465

Forgot about that damned ABS Connector. You have to be really careful with it, as its hard to disengage if there is any dirt in it. Maybe give it a spray with lube spray or brake cleaner before you try to disconnect it to clean it out a bit. Don't break it!

Also, to my note above about removal of the hub nut, make sure you pull the cotter pin out before you try to remove the nut.

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 2:06 pm
by ShipFixer
Thanks! I'll leave it in 2WD then. I do have access to air tools; heading to the auto hobby shop on base!

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 2:07 pm
by ShipFixer
Oh one other question, did you remove both the ball joint and the tie rod or just the ball joint? From clubfrontier.com it looks like results vary on that one...

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 3:14 pm
by disallow
No ball joint removal required.

Once you pop off the brake caliper and rotor, and the hub nut, you have access to the 4 bolts on the back side of the hub assembly.

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 4:32 pm
by ShipFixer
How'd you get the hub off? Just pull it? I'll try just hitting the four hub bolts...

Also that abs sensor is a PITA to unplug...

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 4:40 pm
by disallow
ShipFixer wrote:How'd you get the hub off? Just pull it? I'll try just hitting the four hub bolts...

Also that abs sensor is a PITA to unplug...
Those bolts are tiny, I wouldn't hit them.

If you have an air chisel, try chiseling between the knuckle and the hub backplate. You have access to both corners on top.

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 4:57 pm
by ShipFixer
Ha! I meant I'll just try removing it in place without disconnecting the knuckle. You were right, not so bad to unbolt.

Any tips for the abs sensor plug? It's foiling me, I seem to be chewing the plastic instead of unplugging it.

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 6:25 pm
by disallow
Other than what I've already said, the only other advice is to not get mad at it so you don't break it.

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 8:42 pm
by ShipFixer
Got it done. ABS sensor was definitely the most annoying part, but once I figured it out it only took a few more minutes of pulling.

Overall not too bad, especially since I didn't detach the ball joint or tie rod like most people seem to do. None of the bolts were that hard to get off which surprised me (my truck is from Virginia and each time I do something the first time, it's an adventure).

The local Nissan dealer that gave me the same price on parts as Courtesy Nissan would have charged me something like $350 for them to do it. Rather give up three of my own hours!

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 9:00 pm
by disallow
I love it when a plan comes together.

Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:40 pm
by HoneyMonster256
Hello, I'm about to go through the same thing on my 06 Pathy, same front right also.

My question is any preference on Parts, I have numerous options to purchase. I don't want to go cheap but at the same time I'm not gonna go to the dealer for the part.

I heard the name Timken mentioned but not sure. Any Advice?

Never Mind I read the other post and I'm ordering an Timken.

Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:35 pm
by smj999smj
Timken's a good brand and is the likely the manufacturer of your original part. National and Moog are pretty good, as well.