The Nissan Path

Anyone ever thought of changing hubs to switch to a more common bolt pattern?

I've been through too much crap with wheel manufacturers and such and am thinking of going to the Titan/Armada hub.

I'm going to attempt to order some cheap junkyard items for test fit, and if they work, I'll go ahead an order new units.

Just thought I'd post for the community.

04-07 Titan/Armada rotors are the same for the front, as are the spindles from the Armada so that shouldn't be a problem, as in the spindle does not need to be changed.

It's the rear brakes where it gets interesting. Since the Pathfinder has 12.1" rotors and the Armada/Titan have 12.6" out back, I can see how that can be challenging.

In the past, I've worked on other cars where the same issue was an issue, and needed a little grinding. I know folks on here are a bit disturbed when the term grinding comes into play, but have seen it be done with no ill effects.

Aside from that, I can't seem to find rotors with the 6x5.5 BP and a 12.1" OD. I'll keep looking. I know for my Maxima, rotors are nearly interchangeable from the Acura TL, so hopefully I can find a rotor with similar dimensions.

Also, the Armada center bore is quite a bit larger, hub-centric rings can cure this, but, I'm assuming the hub will take care of this.

There's also the option of drilling the current rotors to fit the future bolt pattern, but that seems like a hassle and not a very good idea.

Anyhow, I'll be venturing into this in the coming weeks.

Have you thought about just buying wheel adaptors? I've seen this done before and would probably cost less than a hub swap.

volvite wrote:Have you thought about just buying wheel adaptors? I've seen this done before and would probably cost less than a hub swap.

I already have those. Hubs and rotors should be fairly cheap. Better than paying 200+ for adapters, which I've already done, and fighting with wheel companies, waiting, run around, modifying fenders, etc.

Problem is, I want to fill out the wheel well with tire, not dead space.

Right now I've got the thinnest adapter they offer. .75" for 6x5.5, which by going thinner requires you to grind your OEM studs. I'd rather have that 3/4" filled with more tire.

Looking to put 35x12.5's under there, but would rather do so with the wheel/tire not sticking so far out.

OEM = 265's and +30mm offset.
Currently =t 295's with -31mm offset. (6x5.5)
Goal = 35x12.50 -12 offset

Using this, but instead of wheel width, I use tire width. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

Result = Inner edge of the tire will sit just about where the OEM inner edge sat, so no rubbing on the inside. And the outer edge will be about where my current is right now, slightly inward which is good because I still get some rub when turning and flexing.

Finally Fuel/MHT got it right. 5 Fuel Hostage 6x4.5 -12 / 4.5" BS sitting in boxes in the back of the Path right now. 35's are next on the list. Mud grapplers or 325 65 18's GYDT's. hmmm

So no wheel spacers? How much did those wheels cost? Sound expensive.

volvite wrote:So no wheel spacers? How much did those wheels cost? Sound expensive.

I'm using 0.75" wheel adapters now (6x5.5), but finally can get rid of them. So after this, no adapters needed. My wheels/tires will now retract bu .75" which is good for the rubbing I got up front.

They're run of the mill aftermarket wheels, same that are on there right now, IIRC 212$ per wheel, so not bad at all.

I knew you were currently using a adaptor, so that's good that these wheels will stop the need for those.

Decided to go with 325 65 18's in Duratrac form. I'm guessing I'll need to store the spare somewhere else, other than under the rear like the OEM one is now.

I know of people getting the 33" to fit, but this one might be a tad too large. I'll order the tires and see how it all goes together. I'd hate to have to mount it up top using a rack, and the rear tire carrier is a bit too much $$ and has bad departure angles from TAG.

You think your MPGs are bad now, as soon as you put that tire on the roof, it will be even worse. That's how I first had my Grand Cheorkee, but after my move from Utah via AL for Air Force Training, I had to do something. MY MPGs were horrible plus I hated how the center of gravity had been changed. Just keep you eye open for the hitch mounted tire carriers. I loved it on my Jeep.

Yeah, been doing some reading on that and I'm not fond of the idea of changing the CoG and having to climb up there if in fact I do get a flat. I might just play around under there and see if I can't modify the existing spare holding hardware to accommodate the larger tire.

I really do like the set-up you had on your jeep, that seems like the easiest and most efficient way to go. The details are just basically a hitch mounted tire carrier correct? Sounds fairly universal.

It was a hitch mounted swing away tire carrier. I've seen other less expensive units that attach to the hitch and then you pull the release pin and it folds down like a bike rack. I wanted the swing away as it allowed me to access the whole hatch and not have to step over the folded down tire. I also wanted the ability to tow still so having a recieve on the swing away carrier was a must. I saw you have a Rzr so you will probably want something similar so you can tow your Rzr.

As for just a hitch mouted tire carrier the basic ones start near $100. Not too bad, but those usually don't drop down out of the way. They will require removal to access your cargo hatch area.

volvite wrote:It was a hitch mounted swing away tire carrier. I've seen other less expensive units that attach to the hitch and then you pull the release pin and it folds down like a bike rack. I wanted the swing away as it allowed me to access the whole hatch and not have to step over the folded down tire. I also wanted the ability to tow still so having a recieve on the swing away carrier was a must. I saw you have a Rzr so you will probably want something similar so you can tow your Rzr.

As for just a hitch mouted tire carrier the basic ones start near $100. Not too bad, but those usually don't drop down out of the way. They will require removal to access your cargo hatch area.

Began pricing them and looks as if they start affordable, and end up not very price friendly, especially the ones that swing away. Found one for 800$, kidding me, I can have TAG make the entire rear bumper with swing away carrier and a double jerry can holder for close that price. I don;t really like the idea of the non-swinging types.

I suppose in the meantime I will see what I can do to modify the the under vehicle spare carrier. I'm wondering what all I will need to do in order for it to work. This will be a fairly big spare, basically a 35x12.5 (325 65 18 ).

Well I will watch as you try and fit a 35 underneath the rear end. I agree with you that for 800, you might as well spend just a few more and get the entire rear bumper. I was just lucky that someone was selling one for cheap.

volvite wrote:Well I will watch as you try and fit a 35 underneath the rear end. I agree with you that for 800, you might as well spend just a few more and get the entire rear bumper. I was just lucky that someone was selling one for cheap.

I'm thinking in the meantime, the spare will sit inside with me and whomever is with me. Although my mutt and my German Shepherd will not appreciate it at all I'm sure.

I've seen where a 33.4" spare was able to fit under there as the largest I've seen to date. But a 34.6", I'm not so sure about. Ah well, tires show up Friday so we will see after I get them mounted.

NmexMAX where did you purchase the bolt pattern adapters in .75? The thinnest I can find are 1".

Also I don't really understand all the offset stuff so maybe someone could help. And first let me say don't attack me!!! LOL. I know alot of guys on here aren't to fond of big wheels but I was wondering if I put some 24x9 or 26x10 rims with the .75 adapter will the wheels stick out?

Thanks alot!