The Nissan Path

Hi
I’m new to the forum and wondered if anyone could give me some pointers. I have a 2006 patchy. The patchy seems to use coolant a lot especially on long journeys. The jeep drives perfectly and doesn’t over heat.i have been told these are common for he’d casket problems, but I don’t have any of the general symptoms of head casket like over heating. Could it still be the head casket? I have thought of putting some dye in the coolant to see if I can see any signs of leaks..
Regards
Steve.

welcome to the ThePath!!

But please check er your radiator cap away!
If you see strawberry milkshake kinda looking residue then get a new radiator and flush your transmission multiple times.

You model year is susceptible to this:
http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic. ... e2a9d5a85d

Hope fully this is not your issue but merely a cracked radiator ( it happens on a 13 yr old truck)
And then you need to replace the radiator anyway...

Thanks for that. There’s no residue on radiator cap nor the oil filler cap. Which normally a white residue formed on filler cap if head casket is failing.will check rad tho. I’m in the uk so not sure if they all have same issues, annoying the tits off me tho😀.dont want to put it into dealers at the mo.

yes I dont know if you ave the same rads we got with the 4.0L petrol.

here is a thread with parts numbers listed.
You can check the parts number of your Rad on the right top of it.
http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic. ... 0103#90103

Greetings. I'm a noob as well. I have similar mysterious coolant loss, getting ready to replace rad, t stat, resevoir, belt, tensioner, hoses etc. (for other reasons) I've read here many people have changes in levels, and things are normal other wise. Air in the system is something to double check. I just learned on this forum that if you have rear heat/ac, check the coolant and ac lines under the body near the frame, and where the lines enter up to the evaporator near the rear wheel, especially where the rubber line-set clamps are. These trap road grime and corrode the lines. You may have a small leak there. Doesn't have to be pucking coolant to affect things. Haven't had checked my 08 yet. I believe 06 is on the passenger side. Dye might be a good idea. Do a search, there's better info on here than I can give. Good luck, Cheers

Realize this is an old topic but, wanted to chime in and say thanks for the post. I read a bunch of the different threads and will be doing the bypass next week. I'm headed on a road trip and May and don't want any problems!

I had a GMC Acadia that chucked the rad and thankfully didn't infect the transmission but, I've always liked the idea of leaving the Radiator right out of the loop.

Thanks again

NWPathfinder wrote:Realize this is an old topic but, wanted to chime in and say thanks for the post. I read a bunch of the different threads and will be doing the bypass next week. I'm headed on a road trip and May and don't want any problems!

I had a GMC Acadia that chucked the rad and thankfully didn't infect the transmission but, I've always liked the idea of leaving the Radiator right out of the loop.

Thanks again

The problem with leaving it "out of the loop" is that there's nothing to warm the transmission fluid and transmission fluid shouldn't be normally operated at temperatures below 150 degrees F. and is optimally run between 175-200 degrees F. Most that bypass usually see around 165 degrees F., give or take, but if you're in an area where it gets really cold, that may not be the case on those extremely cold days. Aftermarket radiators have not had any cross-contamination issues, so far...or, at least, none have been reported...and can be had for $100 or less. IMO, one is better off replacing the radiator than bypassing it.

Where I live we get 20-30 degrees C Summer days and between -5 and 10 degrees C Winter days. However, I'm considering pulling a Travel Trailer a few times a year, perhaps a new Rad should be on the horizon.

I think for now though, I'll do the bypass and then look at ordering a new Rad.