The Nissan Path

Hi everyone, this is my first post.

This summer, my 16 year old son got his first vehicle, a 95 pathfinder XE 4x4 with the automatic tranny. Yesterday I got to see the vehicle for the first time since he got it.(He lives with my ex-wife) We tried to fix the speedometer issue with a new speed sensor and new gear with no results.

My prior research on this subject pointed to the speed sensor or instrument panel. I did check the wiring from the sensor to the engine compartment and did not find anything out of place.

The CEL comes on intermittantly and I checked the codes using the flashing lights on the ECM under the seat using a procedure I found on the internet but the only code that came up was 55 which my information indicates that there is no malfunctions.

My question is this: is there a way to test the instrument panel to see if that is the cause?

The other issue is the speed sensor itself. I played a lot of phone tag with the Nissan dealer and Autozone and O'reillys as well as looking them up online and I got so much conflicting info that I am still not sure if I have the correct sensor installed.

The sensor I bought is from Autozone(Duralast #SU4647) supposedly cross references from the part number(25010-74P01) the Nissan dealership gave me using the VIN.

The problem with the new part is that although it looks exactly like the part taken out of the truck, it has a + on the sensor body instead of a - that the old part has on it. My research told me that this is important but there is also conflicting information on what is correct for my vehicle. Most of my infor that I found seemed to indicate the - bodied sensor is the correct one but not all. I asked the Nissan dealer about the part number they gave me in regards to the automatic and manual tranny's and they said the part number they gave me was used in both applications so I'm very confused on what is correct.

I have no idea if the sensor I took out is original but I kind of doubt it because it has the same type of numbering as the autozone part I just bought except for different numbers on it and the difference of the + and - and it looks like the sensor had been removed at some point because the bore that the sensor came out of in the transfer case was pretty scored up as if someone tried to pry a sensor out of it at some point. The sensor I pulled out had no damage. Also the model type(XE, SE, etc.)seems to be an important factor depending on where you get your info. The Nissan dealer made mention of this.

Has anyone had any experience on the + or - aspect of these sensors and would having the wrong one in cause the speedometer to not work at all.?

Sorry for the book, but this is my first time working on a Nissan and with this type of problem. Thanks.

Wayne

ps. all of the other gauges work except for the speedometer and odometer.

I have the same issue with a newly acquired 1995 Pathfinder SE.

All gages work and sometimes the speedometer. When it fails however the CEL comes on but not always. We discovered that if you press the trip reset button it comes back on. If you hold it down it will work. Sometimes this recovers the speedometer and it will work for some time before failure.

I'm thinking about getting a dash cluster and just replacing the speedometer itself since it seems to be an issue in the dash.

Anyone else have any ideas?

I'm new to the Pathfinder...and love it!

I actually tried putting in a different used cluster that was given to me and said to be a working one and it still did not fix the issue. The check engine light is also on but my scanner won't hook up to it and even Autozone doesn't have one that will so I don't know why it is on.

I'm giving up on the speedometer/odometer issue. I've tried everything but put in a brand new speedometer and with the cost for a new one at over $200, it isn't going to happen.

I hope you get your issue resolved.

Wayne

Before giving up, try removing the cluster, loosening the 4 screws at the back of the cluster that hold the speedometer head and re-tightening them. If it fixes your speedometer, it'll probably be a temporary fix and you'll need the speedo head unit to fix it. Nissan had some problems with the speedo heads in a number of mid-90's models, not just the trucks. The threaded inserts that the mounting screws thread into tend to crack and create a poor contact. Intermittent problems will usually occur until it gets real bad and fails to work at all. This will also set a vehicle speed sensor code. Also, WD21 Pathys are OBD I, so your local auto parts store won't be able to pull codes with their generic OBD II code reader (OBD II started in 1996 in the Pathfinder). Codes can be checked using the red and green LED's on the side of the ECM, located under the passenger seat. Procedure for doing this can be found at: www.troublecodes.net/Nissan

I have not tried messing with the four screws holding the speedometer head on so I will give that a try when my son comes back down in a couple of weeks.

I knew that this vehicle was OBDI and I did try accessing the codes using the lights on the ECM and it told me everything was okay. No codes stored even though the CEL is on. I did the procedure a few times just to make sure I wasn't doing it wrong and got the same results. I will try it again the next time I have the vehicle and see what I get. Thanks for the information.

Wayne

After reading multiple posts on many sites concerning this gauge issue (because I experienced the same problem on my 2000) I took it upon myself to dive in head first and solve this issue...and I did. After speed sensors, new clusters, new battery, tracing wires and checking grounds, it finally worked, but only for a while. The new cluster started shutting down after about 15 miles of driving. I was pi$$ed off!!!!!!

The fix...I took the old cluster apart piece by piece. I broke loose every light, every screw and cleaned each one. I tightened the screws, cleaned the leads that go to each gauge, and reinstalled the original cluster. 12,000 miles into it, no problems. You see, if you examine the circuit board you will notice that the brass leads are all connected at some point. Any loose or corroded connection breaks the loop, so to speak. They are also grounded by the screws, which were loose on my original cluster AND the new one. I now have a spare cluster just in case, but it makes me wonder how many folks have spent hundreds, even thousands trying to solve this problem (I spent $943.72) and all it was it simple tightening and cleaning.

I know this will not fix every problem, and I am sure clusters just go bad, but for a lot of people with the same instrument cluster erratic behavior, this could end your troubles. I hope this helps.