The Nissan Path

My daughters 2000 Nissan Pathfinder has a no crank no start condition. Part of the ignition switch was shorted out, so we replaced that part with a new one. That part was the white color short plastic cylindrical thing with 6 terminals on one side and a T shape intrusion on the other side of which the other parts of the key cylinder slips into. We also replaced the starter relay also known as the inhibitor relay. Still no crank no start. I was under the dash with my multi tester testing all the fuses. I had the ignition switch in the on position and while probing the fuses for voltage, the engine started right up. Before I could tell my daughter anything she turned off the ignition. Anyway I tried to duplicate the procedure I was using to see if the engine would start up again. No such luck. In any case, I now know that the starter is not the problem. This car has a chip in the key. It does not have any remote door locks or key fob. There is a red light on the left side of the dash that blinks off and on. I tried using several different methods to reset the alarm system with no change, it still does not crank over. I removed the inhibitor relay, turned the ignition to the on position, I do have 12 volts at one of the terminals in the relay socket. The terminal numbers in the relay are: 1,2, 3, 4, 6 and 7. The terminal in the relay socket that I'm picking up the voltage at appears to be terminal 1 if I'm reading it correctly. This is where I'm at so far. Any suggestions? Thank you, Tommy.

The red, flashing light is usually a security system light. If it's in the cluster, it's a factory system. However, if you have a red LED set in the plastic of the dashboard, it is likely an aftermarket system. The factory security system, if activated, will cut the fuel pump but still allow the starter to crank the engine. If you have a factory service manual, there are diagnostic procedures and wiring diagrams located in the factory service manual for your vehicle. NICO Club's website allows free access to their online, Nissan FSM collection. If, however, you have an aftermarket system, it may prevent the starter from cranking. Most of these systems have a module attached with tie straps located under the driver's side of the dash and a lot of these systems don't have the instruction manuals with the vehicles. For those systems, you may be best off taking the vehicle to a place that installs such systems.

smj999smj wrote:The red, flashing light is usually a security system light. If it's in the cluster, it's a factory system. However, if you have a red LED set in the plastic of the dashboard, it is likely an aftermarket system. The factory security system, if activated, will cut the fuel pump but still allow the starter to crank the engine. If you have a factory service manual, there are diagnostic procedures and wiring diagrams located in the factory service manual for your vehicle. NICO Club's website allows free access to their online, Nissan FSM collection. If, however, you have an aftermarket system, it may prevent the starter from cranking. Most of these systems have a module attached with tie straps located under the driver's side of the dash and a lot of these systems don't have the instruction manuals with the vehicles. For those systems, you may be best off taking the vehicle to a place that installs such systems.

The light is a Security light. It is not in the cluster, it is on left side of the dash, however, it is a Factory Security light, not an after market light. I did more trouble shooting today. Not sure, however, I may still have more than one problem remaining. I jacked up the car and located the starter. I placed my jumper across the hot battery cable and the solenoid terminal. All I would get most of the time was a loud clicking sound. Almost sounds like the starter was in a lock position. Once in a while the engine would turn over, very seldom though. This is with my jumper, not with the ignition switch. The battery voltage reads around 12.60 volts. While doing this test I also had my battery cables hooked up to my truck while it was running. With that said, I'm wondering if the starter went bad. I replaced it less than a year ago. These current problems all started with a shorted out ignition switch which I just replaced the other day. I'm also not getting any voltage at the starter solenoid wire. I also replaced the starter inhibitor relay as well. This Pathfinder has a 6 pin inhibitor relay. Two top pins are vertical, two lower outer pins are also vertical and two lower inner pins are horizontal. They are numbered 1,2, 3, 4, 6 and 7. Very difficult to get any information for this 2000 Pathfinder. It would be nice to identify which pin in the inhibitor relay socket goes down to the starter solenoid. I will try looking for information in that NICO Club Website you mentioned. Any other suggestions. Thank you, Tommy.

I did some testing. With the starter relay removed (Inhibitor relay) I checked all the pins in the starter relay socket. They all seem fine except for pin 6 and 7. I don't recall seeing voltage at pin 6 with the ignition switch on and in Park or Neutral. Not sure if pin 7 should have had voltage as well, however, it did not. With the starter relay installed back in the socket, and the ignition key in the start position, there is no voltage at the starter solenoid wire. Also, I removed the starter and bench tested it. By using two different battery's separately I hooked up the battery wires and the jumper wires. The starter ring gear rotated very slowly. I probably could have held the ring gear with my fingers to keep it from rotating. That's how bad it was. So, two remaining problems: Bad starter and no voltage at the starter solenoid wire with the key in the start position. That's where I'm at right now. I did order a starter. Waiting on that. Thank you for your support, Tommy.

For those following this, Pin 6 of the relay gets power only when the ignition key is turned to the start condition. Pin 7 will receive that voltage and send it to the starter solenoid "if" and "when" the relay solenoid is energized AND it pulls closed the switch between Pins 6 and 7, completing the circuit.

smj999smj wrote:For those following this, Pin 6 of the relay gets power only when the ignition key is turned to the start condition. Pin 7 will receive that voltage and send it to the starter solenoid "if" and "when" the relay solenoid is energized AND it pulls closed the switch between Pins 6 and 7, completing the circuit.

Ok, I will be checking what you are saying tomorrow. I'll install the new starter as well. I will post my findings as soon as possible. Thank you very much. Aloha, Tommy.

Daughter Summer wrote:

smj999smj wrote:For those following this, Pin 6 of the relay gets power only when the ignition key is turned to the start condition. Pin 7 will receive that voltage and send it to the starter solenoid "if" and "when" the relay solenoid is energized AND it pulls closed the switch between Pins 6 and 7, completing the circuit.

Ok, I will be checking what you are saying tomorrow. I'll install the new starter as well. I will post my findings as soon as possible. Thank you very much. Aloha, Tommy.

smj999smj, you were right. After I installed the replacement starter, I jumped terminals 6 and 7. The engine starter right up. So, I then purchased another starter relay. Removed the jumper wire, installed the new starter relay. The engine started right up. The causes for this no start condition: Ignition switch shorted out, the starter relay shorted out and the starter was shorted out. After I replaced all 3 items, the engine runs fine now. Thanks to all. A Special thanks to: smj999smj. Your support and expertise is really appreciated. Aloha, Tommy.