The Nissan Path

This one is long overdue... Here it goes...

I decided last winter to buy what was needed to eliminate the strut top-out I was experiencing almost daily. The road from my house to my work are not in good shape and I wanted to so something about it before my strut disintegrate !

I tried last saturday to take a few pictures to better illustrate how I have decided to do it. There is other ways, but I like mine for different reasons.

1) I used adjustable clevis so I can move the adjustment of the strap if I need it or if I change the setup or suspension. Since At the time of doing this I knew I was going to add a spacer later in the year, I knew It would be a piece of cake to do so. If you have a fixed setup, then you need to either re-weld or change your straps...

2) I welded a plate on the inner fender of the pathy cause I feared the metal sheet of the pathy was not going to be strong enough for the long run if I just welded a small surface mount on it... So I welded a plate, then welded the surface mount on the plate, giving more strength and area to the mount.


I bought my stuff at Pacific Custom ( http://www.pacificcustoms.com ) Great service and fast delivery, no mistakes...worth mentioning these days..
The parts I used are the following :

1) CHROME STEEL ADJUSTABLE CLEVIS FOR LIMITING STRAPS - MADE IN CHINA
Part Number: AC510050C
Price: $35.00

2)WELD ON FORGED MOUNT FOR LIMITING STRAP CLEVIS
Part Number: AC510050CV
Price: $10.00

3) BEARD 13 INCH LONG 2 PLY BLACK SUSPENSION LIMITING STRAP WITH 1/2 BOLT HOLES - MADE IN USA
Part Number: RA17113
Price: $24.00

In my setup, a 13Inch strap was limit a bit and that's why you see the adjuster all the way to the minimum. But since I will be adding a spacer this winter, It will go down 1 inch and will be perfect. Be advised that straps do stretch a bit. I would recommend a 12inch for a regular pathy lifted with ac springs but no spacers.

The bottom was made from a welded piece of steel that was bent a bit in order to have a direct line with the upper mount so that it pulls in straight line.

Here's a few pictures... If you have questions, don't hesitate. ha yes, almost forgot... gone is the bang of top out.. now I don't hear anything.

General view:




Upper mount:



Lower mount:




.

Hopefully this will help clear the many questions you guys may have about this mod.

S.

I can't believe that no one has replied yet. I am also thinking about doing this real soon. I hear mine top out a lot too. I put on the 2" suspension lift with new springs and shocks... And BAM over every hole. It's annoying.

I know that you stated the sizes needed, but just to make sure, you said that a 13" strap would be perfect for a pathy with the 2" lift?

How did you measure to make sure your straps were in the right position to catch just before top out?

The right strap for a lifted r50 with the ac springs would be 12''. But if you plan on putting spacers eventually , like me, then go with 13.

To figure out the the right place is not that hard since I used adjustable clevis... and that's the key... with fixed mount, this would have been a nightmare since you have to account the stretch the belts will have after a dew months and the settlements of the springs etc...

So for me, I first welded the bottom part of the setup (small steel tab), then have the whell completely depressed , then used a hydrolic jack to lift it 1/2 inch .This was determined as the maximum bottom travel distance. I went from there by putting my adjuster to the max and welded the upper plate of the setup. Like I said, I maxed out my adjuster because I will be putting spacers (still not done but at least I have them now), so that my adjuster will need to be released 1 inch... The good thing with this setup is that I will be able to do it by simply unscrewing the adjuster nut...no need for unwelding and replacing etc....

I like the setup very much and has been flawless since the installation and many hard core trails.... no more bang for me !