Disengaging front drive.

[Luvo]

I'm struggling with the pathetic performance of our Pathy when it comes time to reverse our 2200kg caravan up the driveway and onto the front yard. The clutch is just about shot after riding it time after time to prevent the diesel from stalling. It would be fine IF I could disengage the front drive and select 4WD-Low. Has anyone tackled this problem yet?

From what I can glean from the manual, I should be able to disable the 2-4WD solenoid by breaking into the wiring with a switch, and then select 4WD-low. Am I on the right track? Or is there another solution?

Ciao,

Steve.

[nvrdun]

So you want 4wd Low but without the front wheels engaged?

I think I misunderstood the question.

[Luvo]

Thats it in a nutshell. Yes.

[G35TR]

You basically want 2WD LOW. Not sure how one would accomplish this. I don't know enough about the transfer case to know if this is possible.

Wouldn't it be easier to replace the worn clutch?

[Luvo]

Hmmmm. $3000 clutch, or $2.50 switch (if it's possible). I know what I'd prefer, especially since replacing the clutch is going to happen anyway, and then I will still have the same problem...

[G35TR]

Hmmmm. $3000 clutch, or $2.50 switch (if it's possible). I know what I'd prefer, especially since replacing the clutch is going to happen anyway, and then I will still have the same problem...

Let us know how the switch works out for you ok?

If you have to burn through clutches to back a trailor into your yard, there is obviously something wrong with the situation.

[MonkeyMike]

Hmmmm. $3000 clutch, or $2.50 switch (if it's possible). I know what I'd prefer, especially since replacing the clutch is going to happen anyway, and then I will still have the same problem...

$3,000 for a clutch sounds ridiculous. are you sure you're not driving a ferrari.

$2.50 for a switch, but how much for a new tranny and transfer case when you thrash the ones in the truck by disabling something your not supposed to.

~mike

[Captain]

I did this on my last 4x4. 2wdLow is nice for when you have to turn with a heavy trailer.
The way you said your going ot do it would work just fine.
This is how I did mine.
Mine was a pull cable type found on many Jeeps. So I orderd a kit called posi-lock. Its a pull cable that comes into the cab and when you push the 4x4 button your t-case goes into 4x4 or 4x4Low. but your front axle is still in 2wd. When you want 4x4 you just pull the cable or flip the switch and the axle will now be locked.

Just make sure you put the T-case in 4x4 before you switch on the axle. and make sure you unswitch the axle first when taking the T-case out of 4x4. The font axle has whats called a sliding clutch. In order that you do not break this you must follow what I said. I used it alot when wheeling to get around tight turns in the trail on dry dirt or rocks.

[nvrdun]

Have you thought about adding a "hidden hitch" to the FRONT of the vehicle?
Then you wont need to use reverse! You can also use the front receiver for winches and other stuff.

[Luvo]

Hmmmm. $3000 clutch, or $2.50 switch (if it's possible). I know what I'd prefer, especially since replacing the clutch is going to happen anyway, and then I will still have the same problem...

$3,000 for a clutch sounds ridiculous. are you sure you're not driving a ferrari.

$2.50 for a switch, but how much for a new tranny and transfer case when you thrash the ones in the truck by disabling something your not supposed to.

~mike

NISSAN Australia quoted at least $3000. More if the flywheel needs work or replacement. Not that I'd consider replacing it with a NISSAN clutch though. I'm more than likely going to take it to a brake and clutch specialist, and have a heavier clutch installed. If you want NISSAN parts in this country, you pay through the nose, and wait an eternity for it to arrive on a slow boat from China. Door handle (for example) took 6 weeks to arrive, and then it needed painting and installation.

And the front hitch idea is a great one. I had one on my old Landcruiser. Excellent for moving heavy trailers into tight spots. Then again, that old truck had manual front hubs, and I could use 4WD low in 2WD mode easy as...Should have held onto that one.

[Luvo]

Well, I took the plunge a few moments ago. Closed my eyes and cut the wire to pin 1 of the Transfer Control Unit. Went for a quick test drive and it would not engage 4WD at all. Oops. The '4WD' amber caution annunciator came on and the vehicle traction symbol disappeared. Bugger. So I soldered in a quick disconnector with a shorted link, so I could quickly connect and disconnect the wire at will. When connected back up, the fail condition was cleared when a 4WD mode was selected. Whew!. So off for another quick drive. I put the car into 4WD Low first, engaged everything by driving a few feet, and THEN disconnected my wire. Nothing perceptible changed. Until after a few forward/reverse drives later, and then I noticed that the same fail condition was displayed on the dash again. But I was still in 4WD Low! This is looking better! So then I got adventurous, and ventured onto the bitumen. I couldn't detect any transmission wind-up or stiff steering. Next test will be to try it on a 4WD track. All I had access to for my testing thus far was a dirt track on a very slight incline. And I was by myself, so couldn't get someone to keep an eye on both front wheels.

It will be a few weeks until I need to back the caravan back into it's clutch destroying spot, so I'll keep my joy under wraps until then...

Steve.

[Captain]

The reason you got the light is from the ECM detecting a open in the actuator sensor circuit. Like you said that it would not go into 4x4 the first time is because the ECM went into fail safe mode and was protecting your trans and t-case but the 2nd time it work because it sensed a good circuit and went into 4wdLOW.
Like I said in my Post above to disengage the axle after you are in 4x4.

Man No one listens to a Professional Certified Mechanic.
Sure don't listen to me, What to I know.

[Luvo]

Keep your shirt on mate! Your post was the deciding factor in me trying my theory out. I've asked on several forums, and until now (I'd been contemplating this for a few months), no one has provided any positive advice. So I took it one step at a time. Cutting the wire was stressful enough, so I tested after every step. I got there in the end didn't I? I certainly did not know of your professional status.

[Captain]

I will keep it on thank you. Its just a saying we have about being a mechanic. most truck owner do not lissen to us when we give advise so we say. Sure dont listen to me, Im just a Mechanic.



I've been in the feld for over 10 years now and are cert up the ass. I do not even remember anymore for Cat,Cummins,Ford,Navstar and the list goes on. I remember the first time I had to cut/drill exe into a 150k truck. Its hard but after the 4 time you let your guard down. Well im glad it worked out for you in the end.

A good Idea for u is to use a lighted switch so you will know your in 2 or 4x4 mode ( your choice) so you do not leave it in 4x4 on days not needed.

[Luvo]

No worries. It's probably not a good look anyways (without your shirt, that is...). I keep mine on for the same reason. We have a lot of cultural differences don't we?

Hey, thats a great idea about the switch too. I will definately incorporate that one.

Thanks again.

Steve.