Rear A/C line - how long to fix?

[asgard]

Yip. They took out about 2 feet of alu pipe - well they cut the pie and left it still in the carrier. Then the inserted a length of rubber hose with alum ferrel on each end and compression fitted it into the line.
It is repaired about 4 inches back from where there is a flex rubber section and onto the pipe beneath the stell cover plate, it is run between the body and the chassis. I have my doubts as to the suitability of this repair, but then again the rubber won't corrode.
I will take some pictures when I get time. Invoiced Nissan for 6.5 hours.

[Swerve]

Yip. They took out about 2 feet of alu pipe - well they cut the pie and left it still in the carrier. Then the inserted a length of rubber hose with alum ferrel on each end and compression fitted it into the line.
It is repaired about 4 inches back from where there is a flex rubber section and onto the pipe beneath the stell cover plate, it is run between the body and the chassis. I have my doubts as to the suitability of this repair, but then again the rubber won't corrode.
I will take some pictures when I get time. Invoiced Nissan for 6.5 hours.

super old thread I know, but do you still have the Pathfinder and how's the repair held up?

I ask because my AC is now no longer working and looking through my stack of service history, there's mention of possible leaks in my rear lines...

[ShipFixer]

Dunno about his repair, but mine has been fine since I posted this in 2012. A Nissan dealership in Arkansas did it after I specifically asked them about A/C line repair kits. Cost me something like $300 I think.

[Swerve]

Dunno about his repair, but mine has been fine since I posted this in 2012. A Nissan dealership in Arkansas did it after I specifically asked them about A/C line repair kits. Cost me something like $300 I think.

Well that sounds great! Was it a Nissan kit for the dealership to do it without lifting the body off the frame, or did they use something aftermarket?

I'm wondering if my dealer can still get a Nissan kit and if not and they will only do the expensive body off frame replacement of the lines, then I may go to an independent AC shop for them to use a rubber hose approach to replace the bad aluminum sections.

[ShipFixer]

I am pretty sure it was a Nissan provided kit, but there are generic ones too. I just asked the dealership about it, they checked, and said "Oh yeah, we can do that, that's way easier." They were not any more excited about lifting the body off the frame than I was.

[Swerve]

Well I got mine fixed! The dealership only offered the rear line set replacement via the body off frame job which I was not interested in doing. An independent shop I trust also said that they don’t repair lines and recommended an AC specialist. I gave them a phone call this morning and they had an opening today so I took it in and they were able to repair the smaller high pressure line by cutting out the rotten section under the clamp beneath the passenger seat close the the B pillar and replacing that section using aluminum “LOK union connector”. They said the larger line looked ok and that was the only leak. 2.9 hours labour plus parts and I’m all good!

I’m happy to have supported a small local business too!

You can see the connector in the third line here close the retaining bracket. I slipped my iPhone up to get this pic otherwise I can’t see it from underneath. I could feel it but not see it.



UPDATE: About a year later, I had another new leak, which was found to be further back and up under the rear passenger seat. The first repair was holding up fine. The AC specialty shop offered to repair this section as well, but advised that this may not be the final spot it could leak from so rather than continuing to chase who knows how many other leaks in the rear AC system that could develop, I instead chose just to cut and cap the rear lines off at the firewall. AC cools through the front vents only now so it just takes longer to circulate through the cabin to cool it down to temp. It still cools down fine and everyone is comfortable.

[ShipFixer]

Nice! I believe this is the same repair I had done, but as you've pointed out, it's difficult to observe directly. Just in time for summer too, huh?

[Swerve]

you bet! The wife was not impressed when the AC didn't work on an hour drive on a hot day a few weeks ago. She's a happy camper now!

[ShipFixer]

Well...wouldn't you know it, guess what stopped working on the way home tonight

Aside from not replacing my cam chain and tensioners correctly, the shop which is dead but shall still not be named "replaced" my A/C compressor. I put that in quotes because I had them replace it for a warbling noise (sounded like it was failing), and the noise never completely went away. This was a long time ago, I trusted that shop, and no did not check to see if they actually replaced the compressor or dove in to make sure they replaced it with the correct refrigerant plus lubricant. But that was a long time ago and I knew I'd have to do something about it eventually.

Anyway, my compressor sounds like a slurpee machine even with the button off, so back to Passport Nissan in Alexandria (which did really well by me last time!) we go...

[smj999smj]

smj999smj - you are absolutely right, if it took the same ammount of time I would certainly do the repair properly.

Anybody recommend the correct tool to use to cut these lines? I know that the 2 outer, narrower diameter lines are the a/c lines and the center larger diameter lines are for the rear heat.

Sorry for the threadjack!

A pipe cutter would be the correct tool.

[ShipFixer]

If anyone is wondering, a new compressor replacement by the dealer is ~$1600. I knew mine was dying for a loooooong time though.

Upside...with everything I've had done in the last few months, this is the most noise-free my truck has ever been New A/C compressor (no warbling noise from something dying slowly inside), no timing chain tensioner noise, and no power steering pump rattle. Have no complaints left!

[palmerwmd]

If anyone is wondering, a new compressor replacement by the dealer is ~$1600. I knew mine was dying for a loooooong time though.

Upside...with everything I've had done in the last few months, this is the most noise-free my truck has ever been New A/C compressor (no warbling noise from something dying slowly inside), no timing chain tensioner noise, and no power steering pump rattle. Have no complaints left!

HaHa! Let us ever know if you sell your truck

[woowoo]

Hello all,
Looking for some specific help.
My 2012 Pathfinder has a leaking rear AC line.
I took it to a local shop and they installed some sort of block near the rear tire and recharged the system.
The repair lasted 4 days and cost $250.
I managed to struggle through the summer without AC but now that it’s getting cooler I’m having trouble keeping the windshield clear.
I’ve decided to try to cap off the rear AC line myself.
Can anyone share with me a location near the engine bay to cap the rear AC line?
Also, what size fitting(s) do I need?
Much appreciate any help!

[VStar650CL]

They're o-ring fittings, you don't want to try to make your own cap. There are block-off kits all over eBay and Amazon.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185974718251

[VStar650CL]

PS - The only cheapo DIY's I've seen that worked long-term were both done the same way. The lines were cut, filled with a "firm" RTV like Permatex Ultra Gray, then squashed flat and bent back on themselves to form a permanent seal. However, you need to make sure the problem isn't the o-rings at the front fitting. If it is, you'll cap the lines and still have a leak.