Break and remove the bottom bolt first. Make sure you have a jack under the lower control arm, and when you remove the bolt let the control arm extend down completely. This opens up a lot more room around the top bolt.
On the right side, the bolt head is partially obstructed by A/C lines. You need a short socket wrench and socket height combination to get in effectively. Most breaker bars with a shallow socket should get in. Ditto on leaving a smaller wrench on the other side and letting it hold itself against the frame or upper control arm.
A 15" bar won't cut it. Mine (well, the base MWR's) was something over two feet plus a cheater pipe. It was bending quite a bit at the head but it did move eventually. Force wasn't the problem with this set up - the deflection was scary and took up a few of those degrees available for turning the bolt. If I had the option, a 3/4" inch breaker bar would be preferable and probably make breaking the bolt faster.
Rear bolt torque is 129 ft-lbs unless I'm mistaken. The front bottom bolts are 155 ft-lbs.
I did soak everything in WD-40 first, but when I got the bolts out the mating surfaces were all rust free.
Yours couldn't and shouldn't be more rusted than mine by the way, so should be easier. My truck is an east coast 2005 and the rear shocks looked like they had been bathed in salt water. Put my fingers through the upper steel covers pretty easily...
