Vehicle noise/Vibration - U Joint replacement

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SPICOLI
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Vehicle noise/Vibration - U Joint replacement

Postby SPICOLI » Thu Feb 25, 2010 6:20 pm

I'm looking to solve my noise/vibration in my 2005 SE. The noise/vibration occurs between the speeds of 40-60 mph. From the posts on this forum, I figured that the noise/vibration is quite often caused by worn out U Joints.

Which U Joints are we talking about here?

Are they the U Joints of the rear driveshaft(front and back) or the U Joints of the front driveshaft? I would think that it would be the rear driveshaft U Joint as its the one that actually drives our vehicles 99% of the time.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. :D


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xd9-g19
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Postby xd9-g19 » Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:44 pm

I would check both front and rear drive shafts u-joint, and which ever one it is just replace it both, they are pretty cheap and since you'll have the shaft out midas well do em. Which ever one has play in it will most likely be the culprit.

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Tech
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Postby Tech » Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:12 pm

most often front shaft, front joint (but do both). I see prob 50:1 front to rear shafts. You can reach under your struck and push/pull the shaft accross both axis perpendicular to the shaft, any knocking or play, and it's toast. If you get the factory u-joint, it comes with a selection of snap-rings.

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SPICOLI
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Postby SPICOLI » Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:09 am

The good news: Did the front shaft U-joints yesterday. The process was fairly painless, but I did need a BFH to persuade the U Joints out.

The bad news: The front replacement didn't get rid of all the vibration/noise, so I guess I gotta have a look at the rear drive shaft now.

Other than the U Joints, what else would cause these vibrations/noise at 40-60mph. The noise is only there between those speeds and only when the gas pedal is pressed. The second I take my foot off the gas, the vibration/noise disappears.

Any thoughts? :?

NISLO
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Postby NISLO » Sun Feb 28, 2010 3:06 pm

check under your radiator cap and also look in the coolant resevoir. Look for a slimy white to gray substance.

Also to add to the driveshaft ordeal... The front driveshaft always spins while the vehicle is driving so it will cause plenty of vibrations. The front shafts u-joints are common to go bad and I would recomend aftermarket joints because they come with zerk fittings. The rear shaft is less common to see the joints go bad. I have seen a few get play but usually the rear driveshaft will cause vibrations before the joints fail, I mean the rear joints will become tight before they get play in them and while they are tight it will cause vibrations just as much as when they wear loose. You can un-bolt your rear driveshat and check that the joints move freely on both axis if not then replace.

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SPICOLI
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Postby SPICOLI » Mon Mar 01, 2010 9:43 pm

I pulled the rear driveshaft and upon closer inspection, I found the culprit. It was the back U Joint of the rear driveshaft. Since I had the shaft out already, I did both U Joints.

This is what I found:


Image

Image

The U Joint was just about ready to blow. The rusty end and cap had no grease at all and no needle bearings. I think I'm lucky to have caught it when I did.


Thanks everyone for your help.
:D

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bigmankz
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Postby bigmankz » Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:56 pm

wow. that joint is so rusty. :) I had mine chnaged last year due to squealing noise and it looked dirty but not as rusty. good thing you did find this way and not on some off road far away trip or on highway at 60-70 mph :)

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SPICOLI
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Postby SPICOLI » Fri Mar 05, 2010 7:23 pm

Here in Vancouver we have a lot of bridges to cross if you want to go into the downtown core from the suburbs. My biggest fear was to have the drive shaft (u joint) blow out on a bridge or in a tunnel. I can't even imagine. Based on what I found, that U Joint must have been like that for a while before I bought my PF. It's all good now. :D

G35TR
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Postby G35TR » Sat Mar 06, 2010 12:08 pm

Mine looked just like that, except 2 opposite sides of the joint looked like that. Needle bearings all crushed down to dust.

Interesting that yours was the rear though. Mine was the front TC side joint. I'm curious why it affects some fronts (most cases) and some rears.

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Sun Mar 07, 2010 7:01 am

G35TR wrote:Mine looked just like that, except 2 opposite sides of the joint looked like that. Needle bearings all crushed down to dust.

Interesting that yours was the rear though. Mine was the front TC side joint. I'm curious why it affects some fronts (most cases) and some rears.
I went through some deep water with my pathy about 3 months before my rear joint seized. Probably contributed to it by washing out the remaining grease and accelerating the corrosion of the needles.

Also, the joint needs to be in a lot worse shape before it will actually allow the driveshaft to fall apart.

t

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Budrbean
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Postby Budrbean » Mon May 10, 2010 3:38 pm

Where are yall getting your u-joints at? My local Advance Auto and Oreilly said they cant get them. I really didnt wanna go OE if I needed to change mine.

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Mon May 10, 2010 4:46 pm

Budrbean wrote:Where are yall getting your u-joints at? My local Advance Auto and Oreilly said they cant get them. I really didnt wanna go OE if I needed to change mine.
I just put my order in at OReilly today, so whatever they told you they are full of it. He did have to go to the catalog...

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Budrbean
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Postby Budrbean » Mon May 10, 2010 7:19 pm

Cool thanks. I think I may have found them at Autozone next town over. At least that is according to their website

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SPICOLI
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Postby SPICOLI » Sat May 15, 2010 11:34 pm

I got mine at a local Lordco store here in British Columbia. What you want to look for is the greasable fittings. I suspect that my U-Joints failed due to no grease.

slavabon
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Postby slavabon » Tue Jun 15, 2010 4:26 pm

Hey guys,
Is it possible to get the rear driveshaft out of balance after replacing u-joints. Everyhtiung is marked and went back in the same way, but not it gets a high-frequency vibration/resonance. definitely was not this bad before the u-joints were replaced.


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