OEM seems bestSpamcan wrote:First the simple one - belts. Mine started squealing when cold recently. Any suggestions on what type/make to get?
i fully agreeCooper993 wrote:I've used Amsoil and they're very good products, but there's no way I would go 20K miles without an oil change. I'm not sure if the filter would even be working at that point.
I use Mobil 1 and change the oil around 6K miles. If I used Amsoil, I'd do tthe same.
I just thought I would mention that the Walmart synthetic oil is a fine synthetic oil I ran it several cars and trucks over the years. The guy who lives next door to me runs it in his Chevy truck with 300,000 miles on it and changes his oil between 7-8,000 miles. Last year we sent an oil sample into Blackstone labs for analysis and everything looked great. Many people shy away from this oil thinking it's a junk cheep synthetic but it is a quality oil. It may not have the reserve capacity to go long change intervals like Mobil 1 or Amsoil but for 7-8,000 miles it works just fine run it with confidence.smj999smj wrote:Refer to Nissan service bulletin #NTB06-072B for the belt squeak. Nissan has an updated tensioner and belt to address the problem and it also give details of how to check and/or adjust the power steering pump for possible alignment issues. The updated parts are referred to as a "serpentine belt enhancement kit" on the aftermarket. The Nissan part numbers are:
As for the oil changes, Nissan recommends 7500 mile intervals with conventional oil. I use the same intervals, but go with Walmart's house brand full-synthetic, which is running about $18 for a 5-quart jug, and a genuine Nissan oil filter.
Lots of real good points here and exactly why I run the synthetic oil that I run (Shell Synthetic) if I stick with a reasonable oil change interval it is more then up to the task and I see little point in spending more $$ for little benefit in return.ShipFixer wrote:1,000 miles per quart of oil in the sump based on acidity increase from combustion byproducts. This happens before anything else, and will happen over time to any oil you choose.
Last time I checked AMSOIL only tests better in the "tri-ball" test - which is intended for greases. Mobil 1 is and has always been the winner or a close second in any independent test I've ever seen.
All of that being said, the difference between synthetics is usually going to be at the fringes of what you'll see in an SUV: viscosity break down after severe or extremely long term use, additives that provide last-ditch protection from metal-to-metal contact (most of which will be common or specified by the API or JASO anyway), etc. You have to test really long and really hard to get to differences that will matter, and well beyond the usual use case for the average consumer.
Put it this way, it was unlikely that I was ever going to ride my motorcycle hard enough to where the additional molybdenum content in Shell Rotella T over Mobil 1 or others was going to make a difference and reduce metal-to-metal contact by "this much." It's really, really unlikely that it's going to happen to my 5,000 lb bicycle and surfboard carrier...