No, I drilled it on the pathy. If you take off the grill and look down you'll notice the lower bumper sits closer to the radiator, but if there is a next time that suckers coming off first cause that was a pain! I've tried to bend the same kind of 1/4 stock i used with no luck unless i needed a big U shape. You could make the white rhino one minus the tube pretty easy i think with just a flat plate of steel may be 1/8in thick. It looks like it bolts where the 4 little plastic push pin tab things go. As for making any more i wont be able to since its getting cold and we have no room in the garage with my dads car putting new headers and pass floor pan in this winter. I might try and come up with one to bolt where the white rhino one does but with no tube. I'll draw something up when i get a chance.NVSteve wrote:Okay, so how in the hell did you drill the holes into the bumper? Did you have to completely remove it? I've been thinking about this quite a bit lately. Having a friend of mine mention that my lights sucked while in Arches didn't help much either. I was thinking of something a bit simpler that would only involve 1 bracket for each light, rather than an entire bar. Instead of bolting to the top of the bumper, what about having a bracket (almost L shaped) bolted to the front of the bumper under the plastic cover. Make it clear the top of the plastic bumper by say a 1/4" & stick out far enough for lights (I'm guessing 4-5"). I have a vice and a soldering torch, but I doubt either would work for bending 1/4" stock. Anyway, the brackets would give a cleaner appearance, basically only lights if seen from the front.
Or, if you really gave some more thought to fabbing up a few of your designs (moving the top bar lower, right above the license plate), I would certainly buy one from you.
My last option is this one from White Rhino. From what I understand, if it works on the Frontier, it *should* work on the Pathfinder. I'd still prefer 4 light tabs though, but I can live with 2.
All comments, thoughts & suggestions welcome.
You could always make one like this and save yourself $130! Make a cardboard template of the holes to transfer to steel. Then mount the steel plate and trace the curve of the bumper. Then cut it with a metal band saw/jig saw and get some light tabs for a couple bucks to weld on the edge. If you dont have a welder go to the muffler shop and bribe sombody with $10 to do it!NVSteve wrote:I'm going to try and get some measurements this weekend, along with some basic visual eyeballing to see if I could possibly mount the White Rhino bar:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f10/ ... all-33949/
If it will fit, then I'll get one. Just have to check all the mounting locations-I could care less if I have to trim or cut any of the plastic.
Trust me, I wouldn't be posting anything on here except for a finished product if I had the equipment. The bane of living in a small place with a tiny 1-car garage that has walls filled with bikes, kayaks, skis, etc. If I actually had a job I enjoyed, I'd buy a new house right now with a real garage & the room for real tools. But, the job market absolutely bites right now and I won't buy a new place until I find a job.GOTGOO wrote:You could always make one like this and save yourself $130!
Yeah i know what you mean i get paid comission only and work has been slow for two years now...NVSteve wrote:Trust me, I wouldn't be posting anything on here except for a finished product if I had the equipment. The bane of living in a small place with a tiny 1-car garage that has walls filled with bikes, kayaks, skis, etc. If I actually had a job I enjoyed, I'd buy a new house right now with a real garage & the room for real tools. But, the job market absolutely bites right now and I won't buy a new place until I find a job.GOTGOO wrote:You could always make one like this and save yourself $130!
Back on topic, I did a quick visual today & everything looks the same on the Pathfinder as it does on the Frontier-all the same mounting points are there. I'll take some measurements & send to White Rhino and see if they are the same. If they are, I'm going to see if they can add a couple of U-shaped pieces that I can connect my kayak tiedowns to. Maybe even a couple extra light tabs. It's all looking very promising at this point, and I'm willing to pay the price (and not lose my approach angle like with a bull bar).
I had multiple email exchanges with them. I ended up sending them a bunch of my measurements and a photo of the front. The response was "this should work." I don't know if he really looked at my measurements or not. It sounds promising enough & I was ready to buy, but forum member richardekirby came to the rescue & is fabbing one for me instead. You may want to shoot him a PM. Here's the thread:shv2sail wrote:NVSteve - Any luck contacting White Rhino?
That's a nice looking bar, but I would have to agree with NVSteve. Where they want you to mount is not a very strong point. It's easy to access and that's where I originally wanted to attach mine, but after looking at it a few minutes I thought otherwise. It is way to flimsy. Let us know how it turns out.shv2sail wrote:I've found the Westin model on a couple of vendor sites, and using the various "fit my truck" apps most have shown that they have them for 08 Frontiers. Here is the link to the place where I will likely purchase if I go this route:
http://www.ultimatetruck.com/products/w ... t_bar.aspx
$132...and ships free...which is approx the same price KMA charged for a custom fab bar. Not too bad.
I agree with the "bull bar" severly hindering the approach angle...plus I just don't like the way they look
I've been quoting people $150 finished out and shipped for one that accomodates four lights (36" wide) and $125 for two lights (26" wide). Also, did you see the one I put on my Pathy? It is more like the Westin you were looking at. Let me know if you are interested.shv2sail wrote:Actually, I just read over your thread Richard and liked what I see! So the obvious question is...how much for you to fab up one like you did for NVSteve?