Well got back out to the truck this afternoon to finish the job. The front passenger side proved to be much more difficult than any of the others. The top nut on the strut assemble was rusted fast. I soaked it several times yesterday during the course of doing the other three corners. I also made sure to wet it down very well before closing things up last night and heading in at dark. Today, I soaked everything down again before I got started. It wanted nothing to do with breaking loose.
I loaded the strut assembly by placing my floor jack under the LCA and then lifting upwards. Using an 18mm wrench on the top nut and a 8mm wrench on the top of the strut. No dice. Ended up stripping the top of the strut post. Put the air ratchet on it. . .nothing. Couldn't get my impact hammer on it.
So, I got primal on it! I had to break out the nut cracker, a freshly ground cold chisel, 3lb sledge and some other select tools of destruction. After some persuasion and persistence, the nut came off. In several pieces.
Here is just a quick picture of some of the tools used during this project. A few select wrenches (8mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 22mm), similar size sockets in 1/2" drive, air ratchet, impact gun, coil spring compressor, slotted screw driver, cotter key tool, pickle fork, and diagonal cutters.
Figured I should try to address the front suspension disassembly a little better. The rear is really straight forward. Remove the sway bar end link, 17mm wrench.
After removing the cotter key, loosen the upper ball joint nut (22mm wrench). I found it helpful to have the suspension loaded, loosen the nut, run it all the way off of the ball joint, then turn it back on a few turns. Once it is back on, you can break the ball joint free from the UCA. Having the nut on the ball joint stud a few turns keeps the spindle from breaking away and falling away to fast and uncontrolled.
Next, while the suspension is still loaded (under tension) break the top nut free on the strut assembly (18mm wrench or impact gun).
Once the top nut is loose and removed, you can SLOWLY and carefully lower the floor jack to unload the strut assembly. Again, do this in a VERY SLOW and controlled manner!
Once the strut assembly is unloaded and the spring is at rest, you can remove the bottom spring bolt (19mm wrench and socket).
Then remove the strut assembly and prep the new assembly for installation. The new Bilstein shock has five grooves with a retaining ring secured in the lowest ring. The lowest ring is for factory ride height. Each ring up from the bottom adds 0.5" of ride height. Thus, if you choose the top ring, you will hopefully achieve a 2" increase in ride height. I went with the top ring.
The directions that came with the Bilstein shocks clearly state to first place the spring base onto the shock, then the rubber boot gets secured with the zip tie. After that, a newly supplied washer goes on above the boot, followed by the metal collar from the original shock. Eventually at the top you will add the original rubber bushing, the original upper washer, and lastly a new top nut. The last three items don't go on until the strut assembly is back in place.
So it all went back together. Compressing the coil was a bear today. Things were just not going to be easy today. Oh well, again persistence wins and I got the strut assembly in place and installed on the vehicle. I forgot to take a pic of this side reassembled, but it is done. . .trust me on that one.
** Side tip, you can remove the caliper and rotor from the steering knuckle to get the LCA to droop even more if needed. Once you remove the caliper be sure to secure it with heavy duty zip ties or a wire hangar of some sort to keep pressure off of the brake hose. The brake hose limits the travel of the LCA. I found it helpful to get a little more droop out of the LCA to assist in getting the "lifted" strut assembly back into place.