I am seeking advice on the current situation I am in with my Pathfinder.

Currently, it is having electrical problems possibly related to the ABS system.

What I know:

I pulled some codes from the Nissan yesterday

Code Definitions:

C1110 NISSAN Description
The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Actuator And Electric Unit sets the OBDII code when there is an internal malfunction in the ABS Actuator And Electric Unit.

C1163 NISSAN Description
The steering angle sensor detects the rotation amount, angular velocity, and direction of the steering wheel, and transmits the data to the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Actuator and Electric Unit (Control Unit) via Control Area Network (CAN) communication. The ABS Actuator and Electric Unit monitor the Steering Angle Sensor. The ABS Actuator and Electric Unit set the OBDII code when the Steering Angle Sensor is not to factory specifications.

C1144 NISSAN Description
The steering angle sensor is located behind the steering wheel. The sensor detects the rotation amount, angular velocity, and direction of the steering wheel, and transmits the data to the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) actuator and electric unit (control unit) via Control Area Network (CAN) communication.

U1000 NISSAN Description
The Controller Area Network (CAN) is a serial communication line for real-time applications. It is an on-vehicle multiplex communication line with high data communication speed and excellent error detection ability. Many electronic control units are equipped onto a vehicle, and each control unit shares information and links with other control units during operation (not independent). In CAN communication, control units are connected with 2 communication lines (CAN H line, CAN L line) allowing a high rate of information transmission with less wiring.
Each control unit transmits/receives data but selectively reads the required data only.
The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets when the Engine Control Module (ECM) is not transmitting or receiving CAN communication signals of OBD (emission-related diagnosis) for 2 seconds or more.

P1721 NISSAN Description
The vehicle speed sensor·MTR signal is transmitted from combination meter to Transmission Control Module (TCM) by CAN communication line. The signal functions as an auxiliary device to the revolution sensor when it is malfunctioning. The TCM will then use the vehicle speed sensor·MTR signal.

The Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) could be causing all of those except the C1110, which might be an artifact of low battery. They could also all be products of a bad ABS ground. The ABS has its own dedicated one which will cause all sorts of codes if it gets crummy or loose. You need a scan that can tell you whether the SAS is actually communicating on CAN. If it is, then most likely it's gone safe because it lost calibration memory amd a re-cal should fix it. If your scanner has work support for SAS calibration, see if it will take. If the SAS is offline then it won't, the calibration will kick out on an error without completing. When the SAS isn't communicating or has lost calibration, the ABS itself will go safe and stop transmitting wheel speeds. That will cause your P1721 in the tranny and U1000 in the AWD, because ABS-equipped Nissans almost all compare ABS wheel speed with VSS speed from the TCM and throw codes if they mismatch by more than about 5mph.

Ended up going to the dealer on this one.

ABS Module has failed internally which is throwing all of the CAN-related codes and sensor codes.

New Pump will be $900 and it's on backorder currently.

Code Pathfinder wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 28, 2022 7:12 pm

Also told me that my Aftermarket alternator is outputting too much voltage at 15V or Higher.

The voltage set point on my 270 Amp alternator is 14.8 but it increases as I drive down the road.

That's pretty much a regulation failure even at 14.8V. There's no good reason to pump more than about 14.2V out of any alternator. It just burns up the battery plates and may very well have toasted your ABS. If they actually built the alternator with that spec, I have no polite words for them.

Is there a way to downregulate your alternator?
or to return it for a milder setup which I know rugged rocks carries?

You can usually get a used ABS actuator assy. for these vehicle for around $150. Try Car-part.com.

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No polite words, then.

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If it's in the wiring and not the alternator, you can use voltage drop to find out where your problem is. See this post in Nico:

https://forums.nicoclub.com/post6817410.html

The post talks about ground quality, but resistance problems in the power wiring can be traced the same way. There will be more relative drop on big power wires than on the ground side (0.1~0.25V is probably typical between the alternator and battery), but the principle is the same. Many of those double-winding aftermarket alternators require thicker cabling, so that may very well be why your regulation is off. For anything over 200A you really should be using 2AWG just like a starter cable.

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Code Pathfinder wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 03, 2022 7:13 am

With the new 270 Amp Alternator, I am running 1/0 Cable from the Battery + to the Alternator, along with the Engine to chassis ground and Battery to Chassis Ground. I do not have an upgraded ground cable running from the alternator to the frame so maybe that could possibly help as well.

The OE ground and hot cables are the same gauge if I recall correctly, and the current needs to reach the negative post. Vdrop there could definitely affect the regulator. Put a heavy gauge jumper from the negative post to the block and re-test the voltage rise, if it steadies at the 14.8 then that's your culprit. If so, install a heavier or auxiliary ground cable.

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