Hi everyone,

I'm thinking about purchasing a 2008 Pathfinder S 2WD near me for $2000. It looks fine enough, runs well, and has cold a/c. Some of the negatives are the rear tires are worn, it needs an alignment, struts/shocks are worn out, VDC/Slip light is on, airbag light is flashing, horn non-operational, and a few other minor things. It has been in Texas since new, so rust shouldn't be much of a problem.

I'm a competent diy mechanic, so I can do the work myself. I have priced struts/shocks, tires, and a new (or used) clock spring. Is this a bad idea? Is a 275k mile Pathy not worth fixing at this point, especially if it ends up needing a lot more suspension work? I can find a newer, much lower mile example in my area for $6-10k. Thoughts?

Much appreciated!

$$$ add up in a hurry on small things.
Rear tires being worn - seized rear alignment bolts? Maybe not in Texas.

a. I would get a compression check on something with that many miles.
b. the timing chain job - if never done - may cost as much as the truck.

If I had to do it again, I know for a fact that I would invest $3-4k more to get a better condition vehicle.

Depends on what you will use the truck for, I would guess, and that you may be down south, some of the power options that I need, you may not require.

Lots and lots of miles on this one. At least you know it was driven.

Yeah, I know it can add up quickly and if the engine or transmission fail, it's a junkyard car.

I only need it a few days a week, maybe 5,000 miles a year. I'd be happy with a couple of years of use out of it. I wish it had better maintenance records too since someone racked up the miles.

Is the timing rattle primarily observable on cold starts?

$2k isn't bad, if you can get it cheaper, even better.

• All weather/season tires are reasonably priced.

• Rear tires worn, shocks worn, VDC/Slip Light = Rear alignment off

• Airbag light and horn could be clock spring.

You can pretty much do the whole suspension front and rear for less than $1k via Rockauto.

...these engines and transmissions are actually pretty good.

Though at this milage they need to have had decent maintenance to still offer decent expectation medium to long term reliability .
is the radiator original?
Because if not you may want to do the bypass:
about-to-be-new-owner-radiator-question-t17198.html

He was asking $3100 and I negotiated him to $2,000. I think this isn't a bad price, given the pandemic pricing. Pre-pandemic, this is probably closer to a $1K car than $2k.

I have been pricing parts on Rock Auto, but I don't really want to get into a restoration for my intended use.

I ran a Carfax report, the current owner has had it for the last 10 years and 200k miles. I would hope they have better maintenance records. I would also hope the radiator has been replaced or bypassed already.

I talked with the seller some more. It was his dad's vehicle and now he's selling it to help with college tuition. Since they've had it for the last 10 years/200k they should be able to answer maintenance and repair questions...and have records. Regardless, I feel better about this vs it being a trade-in special or fly-by-night roadside dealer.

Link to the ad: https://austin.craigslist.org/cto/d/geo ... 67549.html

Thanks for the link!

Do yourself right. Take it to a mechanic and have an inspection done. If the owner balks, then walk away.
I mean it. Anyone that cared for the vehicle would have no problem.

If a green light is given, you'd be in a better position to know.
Looks like an okay deal in that area for this year vehicle.

I don't like the dent on the door and on the hood. Hail?

Front bumper looks like it's been replaced? The shadows in the video show that the colours don't seem to match up right on both sides. Could be wrong.

Seems every pathfinder I've seen the interior is mint like this one. Whatever material Nissan used in these, they will outlast the truck.

Good luck.

For me, it's a ton of miles. If the body was pristine, I would think harder. It looks like it's been beat up pretty good.

We don't know your financial and personal situation so at this point, the decision would come down if you're willing to put the time and money into it in a worst case scenario.

We're having twins (due November) and already have a 2 yr old. We also just moved from New Orleans to the Austin area and want to buy a house eventually (the market is crazy now). I could afford a $10K-15K vehicle but since the wife is getting a newer minivan soon, I would like to go cheap. I can afford to fix this if it mostly just needs the suspension, tires, alignment, and clock spring/SRS repairs. If it's much more than that, I will probably hold out for something nicer.

I appreciate the advice!

I am not liking the combination of
Check engine light
VDC light
"SLIP" light

Could be a Mass Air Flow sensor.
This are not cheap from Nissan and many of the non nissan ones are not real good.
But then again in this market 2000 USD is a good price.
Still there is a signifcant risk.

So you say you know the sellers?
80 dollars invested into an inspection may give u the confidence to buy it or may save u from taking a bath.

palmerwmd wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 30, 2022 8:02 am

I am not liking the combination of
Check engine light
VDC light
"SLIP" light

Could be a Mass Air Flow sensor.

I would certainly recommend the OP get or do a code scan with a tranny/ABS-capable scanner before buying. The MIL/ABS/slip combination rarely means anything except that the engine has a problem. Most engine codes will cause a derivative C1130 in the ABS simply because the ECM stops sending an RPM signal, which triggers the ABS and slip lamps even though it's the ECM that detected a problem. Once the engine code is resolved, the C1130 clears by itself. The reverse is rarely true, there are very few ABS codes that will also light the MIL.

If it makes you feel any better, I have a 2008 SE 4x4 with 275,000 miles on it still going strong! Replaced timing chains at 148K, Moog quick struts and KYB Gas-a-just rear shocks at 250K. It's had its share of maintenance done, of course, and minor repairs over the years, but it keeps on going! I would definitely have a reputable mechanic or shop check the vehicle over before purchasing it.

Thanks for the advice everyone!

I thought about it and decided not to pursue that particular Pathfinder since my time is more valuable right now.

Instead...a one-owner 2010 SE Journey pkg w/68k miles popped up today at a nearby Nissan dealer. It was purchased locally and maintained at the same dealer selling it today. I looked it over, took it for a spin, and signed the paperwork. I'll be picking it up on Monday after they get a chance to finish the servicing (oil change, filters, wiper blades, etc.) and detail it. I'll make a thread in the new member intro section later.

beegeezy wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 30, 2022 7:56 pm

Thanks for the advice everyone!

I thought about it and decided not to pursue that particular Pathfinder since my time is more valuable right now.

Instead...a one-owner 2010 SE Journey pkg w/68k miles popped up today at a nearby Nissan dealer. It was purchased locally and maintained at the same dealer selling it today. I looked it over, took it for a spin, and signed the paperwork. I'll be picking it up on Monday after they get a chance to finish the servicing (oil change, filters, wiper blades, etc.) and detail it. I'll make a thread in the new member intro section later.

Sounds great!
Still be sure to check the parts number on the radiator!
the 2010 was generally acknowledged to be the last year where u might have to deal with a bad radiator.
Buy it anyway the radiators are an easy fix (unless u have a new parts number which with a 2010 is also possible)