I didn't cut mine either, saw no reason to. Zip-tied it up out of the way.

im still not 100% sure on what to do for this mod but i think that im going to attempt it. i saw the pics but was not really sure what i was looking at. it was just pictures no one was pointing at anything so im not sure

You're looking for the two hoses that connect to the bottom of the rad. Remove the plastic trim pieces under the bumper, then remove the metal skid plate. All in all its about 10 bolts.

Once they're off, you'll see the two hoses. One takes fluid into the rad, the other one takes it back out. You're disconnecting each hose from the rad and connecting the two together in order to bypass the radiator. It's really straight forward.

right it sounds simple i think when i do it ill make a how to on it. im just made a simple how to on plugging the front license plate holder. im just going to do a how to on everything i do to the path

Does anybody know how the auxiliary cooler performs in traffic with the rad taken out. I heard that there might be problems with overheating while stuck in heavy stop and go traffic in hot weather...

xtreme wrote:Does anybody know how the auxiliary cooler performs in traffic with the rad taken out. I heard that there might be problems with overheating while stuck in heavy stop and go traffic in hot weather...

What did you hear and from where? Most trucks don't even have the auxiliary cooler we do. What you heard may have been a misunderstanding of what is being bypassed.

xtreme wrote:Does anybody know how the auxiliary cooler performs in traffic with the rad taken out. I heard that there might be problems with overheating while stuck in heavy stop and go traffic in hot weather...

Nonsense, whoever told you that isn't thinking clearly.

A transmission would never overheat in stop/go traffic, that's the least amount of work it has to do short of being parked.

Transmissions heat up when there is lots of load and lots of revs. If you're cruising at high speeds for prolonged periods of time that's when it heats up. It also heats up when towing heavy loads.

Your normal engine temperature when cruising will be around 180F. In stop/go traffic your engine coolant will go upwards of 220F. Your transmission on the other hand is approaching a danger zone if its over 220F.

The conclusion is actually opposite of what you've been told. If anything, NOT bypassing the in-rad transmission "cooler" means your transmission will be running hotter in stop/go traffic than if you bypass that cooler.

kramer wrote:
You'll also need a 5/16" double ended barbed brass hose fitting like this one:

I just finished bypassing mine. i had to use a 3/8 line barb. the 5/16 was way too small to use. i also did not cut the lines. i ziptied them out of the way so that if anything happens i can always reconnect them back them go to the dealer.

after dropping 45k on my le pathy (and just paying it off), i was way too paranoid to just bypass the rad. (although that external cooler does look plenty beefy!) i installed a b+m 70255 trans cooler in series w/ the stock aux. cooler in front of rad. worked pretty slick 'cause i did'nt have to cut or alter the existing hoses. if anyone wants any pics, i can try to post.

yes, please post pics. did you have to cut or fabricate anything to mount the cooler or was it a bolt on part?

i'll try to post pics in a couple days if i can coop. i got a new digicamera and still trying to figure it out. (some thieving magpie stole my old one). minimal fab work to install. i mounted it just below the factory cooler in front of rad. the hoses that went to the bottom of the rad were just long enough to fit on the b+m.

Is everyone capping the old nipples on the bottom of the radiator, or leaving them open? I just did mine (it takes like 5 min to take off the skid plate with a electric screwdriver and a 10mm socket, then 5 more to splice the lines), but left the nipples open as I didn't happen to have caps. I was thinking about picking up some rubber hose and joining them together next time I take off the plate for an oil change though.

i can't figure out how to post pics on here. if any one is interested in my modification, i can send them my pics and they can post 'em in this thread (6 pics) my email is [email protected]

I'm posting these pictures for trowerpow:

Step 1: remove black plastic lower valance (bottom of pic) with 6 10mm bolts remove black steel skid plate next with 8 10mm bolts



step 2:
pick up b+m 70255 transcooler (about $60)
locate 2 flat plate bars with holes in them in box (bottom right side of box)



step 3:
mount your new cooler just under the existing aux cooler (pass side of vehicle) using the aformentioned 2 flat steel plates with holes in them. i spray painted mine flat black so they would'nt be so noticable from the front of vehicle. cut off ends with hack saw or grinder so there is only 5 holes left. (i did this step so the ends behind the cooler would'nt impede any airflow) use the existing factory 10mm nuts from the bottom of the aux cooler to the top plates. (see pic) there is plenty of thread to do this. shift the new cooler about 2 inches towards the center to ease fitment. next bolt up cooler to the bottom of the plates. i double nutted them with lock washers (probably overkill!) see pic.



step 4:
this part is the only fab work you have to do. find a piece of thin steel and bend into an L shape. i used a piece of scrap about 1 1/2 inch wide. drill hole on 1 side of L and bolt it up to new cooler. (see bottom of pic with double nut. on other side of the L piece drill a hole (about 2 inches from bend) so as to line up the hole the bolt that goes into the metal skid plate you removed in step 1. this bolt is located between the 1st and second plastic bumper tabs on pass side. this step is essential to your new cooler being sturdy and secure.



here is another pic of the L piece. the double nut is facing towards the rear of vehicle. the white thing on the black L piece is just an old sticker.



step 5:
this is'nt the greatest of pics but you get the idea. remove trans cooler rubber hoses from bottom of radiator and carefully reroute them below factory aux. cooler being careful not to kink them. (they should be just long enough. the hose you pulled off driver side of rad. will be the hose you attach to the pass. side of your new b+m cooler. (not long enough the other way) attach other hose from pass. side of rad. to driver side of b+m cooler. attach with worm clamps provided. reassemble your skid plate and front valance, check for leaks and check fluid level. i had to add about 1/2 quart. Jmatic only!
hope this helps

thanks for posting those for me coop.
forgot to mention it's easier to check for leaks/test drive etc. before you reinstall your skid plate and plastic front valance.