Moderator: volvite
snakerupa wrote:Just get the code scanned. Mine has had the light on for a malfunctioning cat. conv. (not blocked) for 20k miles. Runs fine except for the trans issue. I have flushed trans and minimized damage. Just one of those issues with a first year re-design.
As for the 'bashing'. I work at a toyota dealership and see many vehicles daily with over 200k on them. Aside from the sticky pedals, misprogrammed braking computers, drive shafts snapping, truck frames rusting in half, $400 headlight bulbs, leaking sunroofs, failing water pumps, severe engine sludge causing lube issues, prematurely leaking oil pan gaskets, variable valve timing issues and notoriously defective O2 sensors, they are almost as reliable as any Nissan. Oh, wait a minute. No recall.They cover the problems by only notifying toyota 'owners' by mail of the issues so no public panic is caused. Kinda bit em this time.
I asked you before, are you talking about the radiator/tranny cooler failing and sending coolant into the transmission?ByPath wrote:...most of you who are somewhat offended have not experienced the the tranny-coolant and other typical problems that occur.
myriad and G35TR,myriad46 wrote:- Turn key to On without starting the car.
- Wait 3 seconds
- Depress the gas pedal to the floor and release completely 5 times within 5 seconds, and leave your foot off.
- Wait 7 seconds
- Depress gas pedal and hold down until the check engine light goes out and let go of the pedal.
The light will now flash your 4-digit code. If there is more than one code in the system it will do them in order and then repeat.
You have the option to erase the code and make the light go off. When in this mode, hold the gas pedal down for 10 seconds. When you turn the car off and then back on , the light should be gone. That is, if the problem is not still there.
Welcome DPF!DPF wrote:Lastly, I'm new here so don't know, are FSM's available anywhere online in pdf format?
Thanks,
-DPF
Bump for an old thread. The CEL came on in the Pathy tonite. It's got 114k miles and this is the first time it's come on. I searched and found this thread and post. I tried the above mentioned procedure and it did nothing for pulling up a code. Am I missing something?myriad46 wrote:- Turn key to On without starting the car.
- Wait 3 seconds
- Depress the gas pedal to the floor and release completely 5 times within 5 seconds, and leave your foot off.
- Wait 7 seconds
- Depress gas pedal and hold down until the check engine light goes out and let go of the pedal.
The light will now flash your 4-digit code. If there is more than one code in the system it will do them in order and then repeat.
You have the option to erase the code and make the light go off. When in this mode, hold the gas pedal down for 10 seconds. When you turn the car off and then back on , the light should be gone. That is, if the problem is not still there.
True but as long as it runs fine, I'm not too worried. It's the wife's vehicle and she's a little freaked out. I also need to change the plugs and serpentine belt. I can't find a write-up on the belt change tho?volvite wrote:No problem. Post back what you find. Also, you could disconnect your battery to reset the code and drive around and see if it comes back on.
OK, cool. I'll check it out cuz there's no way I'm paying the dealership to do it!volvite wrote:Changing the belt is not too difficult. Find the belt tensioner and there should be a bolt on the front. Get the correct wrench/socket on the bolt and you should put pressure aganist the direction it wants to go and the belt should slip right off. I hope that makes sense.