webmastir wrote:so i think im confused about one last thing. where in the hell is our transmission dipstick? is the only freaking way to check it to drain some fluid?

(i may have asked this before, but i can't remember the answer, if any, i received)

on the left side of the engine bay, you need a 10mm wrench or socket to remove.

t

doh. thanks eieio/disallow...sorry to ask that again. i swore i did ask that just couldn't remember.

im just freaking out about this is all. i'll shut up soon when i really dig into doing this (hopefully) this weekend

webmastir wrote:doh. thanks eieio/disallow...sorry to ask that again. i swore i did ask that just couldn't remember.

im just freaking out about this is all. i'll shut up soon when i really dig into doing this (hopefully) this weekend

transmission oil level check procedure Servive Manual MA-22
do-it-now!
if it's a contamination issue, it will get worse, not better, with time...........

eieio wrote:

webmastir wrote:doh. thanks eieio/disallow...sorry to ask that again. i swore i did ask that just couldn't remember.

im just freaking out about this is all. i'll shut up soon when i really dig into doing this (hopefully) this weekend

transmission oil level check procedure Servive Manual MA-22
do-it-now!
if it's a contamination issue, it will get worse, not better, with time...........

gotcha. tried the service manual. getting errors when clicking on pages listed in the index pane of it (yes it's downloaded properly). whatever it's referring to, isn't there

webmastir wrote: gotcha. tried the service manual. getting errors when clicking on pages listed in the index pane of it (yes it's downloaded properly). whatever it's referring to, isn't there

i just tried it - works for me
do you have a firewall or anti-virus program that might be preventing access?
i sometimes have to turn off my firewall (what a PITA) to access a lot of things

naw, don't' use those (have run arch linux for years now).

i'll figure it out, thanks man... on my way home to read much more about this stuff.

alright guys. i think i've got all the info on this that i'll need now. i'm aware this has been beaten to death elsewhere, but i MUST make sure i have my info straight before doing this. i know what the fluid should & shouldn't look like now. i'll deal with that part after the bypass, when i get a very small sample in a bag/bottle to analyze myself. anyway, i'll add aftermarket stuff in the next month or two, but for now, i'll just do the bypass mod only on my '06 path SE(w/ 105k miles).

eieio: obviously, i'm just the simple method you posted http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic. ... 3539#23539.

--
This will be as simple as connecting (from the pic below..which is obviously pre-bypass) A to B & B to A (so just swapping those two lines only).


the trans oil sample i'll get will come from where before i swap the lines? from B, right?

webmastir wrote:the trans oil sample i'll get will come from where before i swap the lines? from B, right?

any oil drained can be considered a sample, regardless where it is drained from
when you disconnect the hoses, some oil will drain out of them, and from the internal trans cooler cavity in the radiator
before disconnecting the hoses, clean the ends carefully to avoid contamination, disconnect the hoses as necessary, and as you do, drain what oil is in them into a clean container, as well as any oil that you can get out of the internal cooler
i did mine with the system warm, so that the fluid had been freshly circulated
that way, there was no time for any possible contaminant to separate from or settle out of the ATF
some have flushed the internal cooler as well
once you get under there & start doing it, you'll see how easy it really is

I would highly recommend flushing the internal cooler as eieio mentioned. If Matic J is as corrosive as Nissan says it is, you want to flush it completely out of there. I used mineral spirits with a fluid pump, then water and followed up with shop air to flush mine. After you feel it is completely dry in there, you can either reattach the existing hose or purchase a couple 5/16" vacuum line caps and hose clamp them on. I prefere to clamp the existing hose back on so that I can monitor any potential failure of the internal cooler by simply feeling/squeezing the hose on a regular basis (during oil changes?).

UncleRico wrote:I would highly recommend flushing the internal cooler as eieio mentioned. If Matic J is as corrosive as Nissan says it is, you want to flush it completely out of there.

Nissan says Matic J is corrosive?
where did that info come from?

I read that on one of the hundreds of posts on the subject, I believe it was the Xterra post that I gave to 65Fastback. From what these guys are saying Nissan has switched from Matic J to Matic S. I personally have not yet called Nissan to get there take on all of this, but I plan to do just that. I will be doing a poor mans flush and filling with Matic S as soon as I figure out which external cooler I want to go with.[/quote]

eieio wrote:any oil drained can be considered a sample, regardless where it is drained from
when you disconnect the hoses, some oil will drain out of them, and from the internal trans cooler cavity in the radiator
before disconnecting the hoses, clean the ends carefully to avoid contamination, disconnect the hoses as necessary, and as you do, drain what oil is in them into a clean container, as well as any oil that you can get out of the internal cooler
i did mine with the system warm, so that the fluid had been freshly circulated
that way, there was no time for any possible contaminant to separate from or settle out of the ATF
some have flushed the internal cooler as well
once you get under there & start doing it, you'll see how easy it really is

ok, here's why i hesitated the other day to do this. the fluid that leaks out. will it basically pour out of the lines & connections until i reverse & hook the lines up? because i was curious how 1 person could do this with very minimal leak. i keep imagining fluid going freaking everywhere when i do the switch of the lines. oh ya, & my other noob question, which connection (pre-bypass) will give me the trans oil sample when i disconnect it...Line B (refer to pic above), right?

i ask all this i don't plan on buying any fluid to do this bypass, if possible. i know i may need to get some clips when i yank off the bumper, but that's all i really expect for now. until i inspect fluid after i do bypass, i need to keep this a cheap quick (hopefully potential fix, if not too late)

webmastir wrote:

eieio wrote:any oil drained can be considered a sample, regardless where it is drained from
when you disconnect the hoses, some oil will drain out of them, and from the internal trans cooler cavity in the radiator
before disconnecting the hoses, clean the ends carefully to avoid contamination, disconnect the hoses as necessary, and as you do, drain what oil is in them into a clean container, as well as any oil that you can get out of the internal cooler
i did mine with the system warm, so that the fluid had been freshly circulated
that way, there was no time for any possible contaminant to separate from or settle out of the ATF
some have flushed the internal cooler as well
once you get under there & start doing it, you'll see how easy it really is

ok, here's why i hesitated the other day to do this. the fluid that leaks out. will it basically pour out of the lines & connections until i reverse & hook the lines up? because i was curious how 1 person could do this with very minimal leak. i keep imagining fluid going freaking everywhere when i do the switch of the lines. oh ya, & my other noob question, which connection (pre-bypass) will give me the trans oil sample when i disconnect it...Line B (refer to pic above), right?

i ask all this i don't plan on buying any fluid to do this bypass, if possible. i know i may need to get some clips when i yank off the bumper, but that's all i really expect for now. until i inspect fluid after i do bypass, i need to keep this a cheap quick (hopefully potential fix, if not too late)

disconnecting these lines does not result in a torrential flood
just be ready with a clean container to drain them into when you do
if you feel better about it, you can plug the end of the hose(s) temporarily with a golf tee or a punch as you disconnect them
any fluid drained, from any hose location or from the internal cooler, can be considered a sample for inspection
i added no ATF after doing mine, the level was fine
it's really easy - just do it!
BTW: there's no need to yank off the bumper!

will do this when wife gets home from work tomorrow, even tho it's prob too late. i just went out & peaked into the left side coolant reservoir, and i can see something has mixed with it. it's still green, but there's a slight hint of something mixed with it. (kind of like when you see gas mixed with water)

webmastir wrote:

eieio wrote:any oil drained can be considered a sample, regardless where it is drained from
when you disconnect the hoses, some oil will drain out of them, and from the internal trans cooler cavity in the radiator
before disconnecting the hoses, clean the ends carefully to avoid contamination, disconnect the hoses as necessary, and as you do, drain what oil is in them into a clean container, as well as any oil that you can get out of the internal cooler
i did mine with the system warm, so that the fluid had been freshly circulated
that way, there was no time for any possible contaminant to separate from or settle out of the ATF
some have flushed the internal cooler as well
once you get under there & start doing it, you'll see how easy it really is

ok, here's why i hesitated the other day to do this. the fluid that leaks out. will it basically pour out of the lines & connections until i reverse & hook the lines up? because i was curious how 1 person could do this with very minimal leak. i keep imagining fluid going freaking everywhere when i do the switch of the lines. oh ya, & my other noob question, which connection (pre-bypass) will give me the trans oil sample when i disconnect it...Line B (refer to pic above), right?

i ask all this i don't plan on buying any fluid to do this bypass, if possible. i know i may need to get some clips when i yank off the bumper, but that's all i really expect for now. until i inspect fluid after i do bypass, i need to keep this a cheap quick (hopefully potential fix, if not too late)

I used a couple pairs of vise grips and clamped the hoses shut while I did the bypass. I lost maybe a half pint at most.