After the transmission bypass

4timenissanowner · Postby **4timenissanowner** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 12:18 pm

I know this subject has been discussed on here at nausea, but to those of you that have done the bypass, have you noticed any change in the Pathy?
I have a 2007 S with 24,000 miles on it that I plan on bypassing tomorrow.

Thanks in advance!

Storm4.0 · Postby **Storm4.0** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 12:47 pm

I'm bypassed and have no additional cooling and I often tow 4-5000 lbs, the fluid is holding up well with no hint of overheating. No problems here

twinblown · Postby **twinblown** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 4:44 pm

10,000 miles after the bypass and still AOK

4timenissanowner · Postby **4timenissanowner** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 6:04 pm

Thanks Guys!

Storm4.0,

How many miles are you since the bypass?

NoCode · Postby **NoCode** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 6:05 pm

Did the bypass on mine this morning. Very simple procedure for peace of mind. Although I forgot to let all the ATF drain out of the radiator before connecting hoses back up. I'll drain it at the next oil change while I'm under there.

webmastir · Postby **webmastir** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 6:52 pm

Just did this today. I read nowhere that you had to drain shit from the rad :/

eieio · Postby **eieio** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 7:06 pm

webmastir wrote:Just did this today. I read nowhere that you had to drain shit from the rad :/

you don't have to
but it's better to, because if a fracture or leakage occurs in the future, there will be no opportunity of residual transmission oil mixing in with your coolant
but even if that were to happen, it wouldn't be a disaster (just "icky")
and you still can, with minimal effort
how did your ATF look?

webmastir · Postby **webmastir** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 7:22 pm

def not SMoD looking(as far as i can tell). it just looked like used trans oil. not super clear red... but not fully dark brown like some images i've seen either. (see imgs below)

let me know what you think

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4103/506 ... 8a42_z.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/506 ... 9684_z.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/506 ... e60d_z.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/506 ... 4fce_z.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/506 ... fb83_z.jpg

eieio · Postby **eieio** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 7:45 pm

webmastir wrote: let me know what you think

doesn't look contaminated

appears a little discolored, maybe getting old?

webmastir · Postby **webmastir** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 8:11 pm

ya. was thinking that too. will be a cheaper fix to change it than the 4k tranny would've been

.

now, since it doesn't contaminated, i wonder what is causing my wifes shudder at around 45mph sometimes. i read u-joints somwehere. i've been under the path a few times looking around, and they do look rusted. so, maybe that'll be my next project. if i can get the proper tools, i wonder how hard it'd be to replace em

edit: looking at autozone

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/506 ... b6cf_b.jpg

15$? wow. lifetime warranty & no grease needed?

eieio · Postby **eieio** » Sat Oct 09, 2010 8:57 pm

webmastir wrote: i wonder what is causing my wifes shudder at around 45mph sometimes. i read u-joints somwehere. i've been under the path a few times looking around, and they do look rusted. so, maybe that'll be my next project. if i can get the proper tools, i wonder how hard it'd be to replace em

edit: looking at autozone

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/506 ... b6cf_b.jpg

15$? wow. lifetime warranty & no grease needed?

external u-joint rust is common
inspect them for any damage, excessive play, or binding
the service manual has a procedure & specs for evaluation
the OEM joints have no grease fittings for lubrication
IMO, i think replacement joints with grease fittings are a better option
they are apparently not very difficult to replace, but a small press-type tool is necessary
also, the service manual specifies replacement of the driveshaft mounting bolts & nuts, no doubt a good idea

when you think about it, the entire driveline load is carried on those few bolts & nuts

Postby **disallow** » Sun Oct 10, 2010 7:01 am

eieio wrote: IMO, i think replacement joints with grease fittings are a better option
they are apparently not very difficult to replace, but a small press-type tool is necessary
also, the service manual specifies replacement of the driveshaft mounting bolts & nuts, no doubt a good idea
when you think about it, the entire driveline load is carried on those few bolts & nuts

I replaced with joints have a grease nipple. Just have to remember to pump em up during oil changes.

Special press is not required, just a BFH and the right sized socket on a solid surface such as an anvil or bench vise.

I didn't replace my hardware. That was 40000km ago. If properly torqued, the bolt itself is not taking the load.

t

Storm4.0 · Postby **Storm4.0** » Sun Oct 10, 2010 7:28 am

4timenissanowner wrote:Thanks Guys!

Storm4.0,

How many miles are you since the bypass?

About 15,000 mi.

TooMuchControl · Postby **TooMuchControl** » Mon May 18, 2020 4:13 pm

Easy tip (for me).

When driving look out , through your rearview mirror.

If what you see is shaking, then suspect ujoints, as the whole car is actually vibrating behind you. You may be only feeling part of the vibration.

I took my front driveshaft off and took a ride, and it was smooth. Just mark where you removed it before you do this.

Joints didnt look bad, but when I removed it, one needle bearing cap was burnt out caused the issue.

After the transmission bypass

After the transmission bypass

U Joint

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