Hey all...new to this forum, with a simple question. I have a 2000 Pathfinder 4x4. I've had it for about 3 months, with 74000 miles on it. I need to change the brake pads on the front.

I have changed brakes on my other cars before, so 'm familiar with the process, but my father in law said that because it is a 4x4, I have to turn the rotors too.

Do I have to turn my rotors to change brake pads because of the 4x4? Can I just put new pads on like I do my other vehicles?

Hey,

I recently changed the pads and rotors on my 04, but the only reason I did the rotors is because of warping which caused extreme steering wheel shutter when stopping.

Changing the pads is just like any other disc brake system, so if you have done it in the past it is very similar. Changing the rotors can be a daunting task if you don't have the stupid 'h' tool that allows you to take off the hub. Nissan wanted $100 for the tool, after my stubborness and building one out of metal I was able to take the hub off.

I would think that you would be fine using the same rotors as long as they are not warped.

THANKS Nighter ..

So do the Calipers just unbolt liek a GM or other with 2 long bolts
and then you just slip in the new pads ?

My mechanic friend once told me to turn the rotors every time you change the pads. He's not the kind to tell you things, so that he could charge you more.

Even if you don't quite feel the rotors warped, I doubt that they're in perfect condition @ 74,000 miles. If you could afford, I'd have them turned. I'd think that both pads and rotors would last longer that way.

Yes - ALWAYS turn/replace your rotors when you replace your pads.

Mileage will dictate the necessity for turning vs. replacement -- and typically you can only turn/lathe the rotors one time before you reach your minimum rotor thickness.
I forget the specification, but I KNOW it's in the FSM, if you're curious.

Btw: rotors don't "warp" -- vibration and judder when braking are a result of pad material transfer from the brake pads to the rotor surface.
This is commonly referred to as "warping", but it's a tongue-in-cheek term. Literal Rotor WARPING is only achieved in EXTREME overheating situations, like racing or commercial applications.

Removing this material is accomplished by lathing or turning the rotors either on or off the car.

I just replaced the orig. pads @ 70k mi. on my gf's 04, and because of the h-tool (or lack thereof) I simply paid Firestone to turn the rotors ON the car.
These were the orig. rotors, and hadn't been lathed before -- so "turning" was much cheaper than replacement.

Next time will be new rotors. God knows how long the drum pads/rotors will last -- but I'm sure it won't be long.

gr