Reverse Noise

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Kami
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Reverse Noise

Postby Kami » Mon Feb 07, 2011 8:44 am

Hi everyone, so when I place my truck in "R" Reverse and i put gas it to reverse i hear a squeeling noise much like the one from the breaks when they are low. It is loud as I can hear it in the truck with windows up, only happens on reverse. Any ideas? Called dealer and have an appointment, they say it might be like a sensor noise for the breaks?!? lol


Currently my breaks are slightly low cause when i break i can hear but of the squeelign noise.


Thanks in Advance


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eieio
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Postby eieio » Mon Feb 07, 2011 9:04 am

does it make this noise all the time in reverse, or only once, say when backing out of the garage, but not after that?

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Kami
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Postby Kami » Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:48 am

eieio wrote:does it make this noise all the time in reverse, or only once, say when backing out of the garage, but not after that?
All the time! :( so if i drive in reverse it will make the noise all the time till i come to a stop.

Was researching google about this issue, and found a Toyota & Ford forum where they it might be the breaks at first but then when they replced the U-Joint the noise went away. So could it possibly be the U-Joint and is there a way I can tell by looking at it?

also another another reason I found:

Here's why they squeal in reverse and what will help.
On the caliper you'll notice you have a spring on the top side of the caliper. This spring lightly lifts the leading edge of the pads off of the rotor surface. The leading edge is referred to as the edge of the pad that the rotor is turning into, going forward this is the top edge. As you apply the brakes in a forward motion, the pad is brought in contact at a slight angle, not allowing the leading edge to touch first. This prevents a residences (or vibration) from being set on the pad to rotor surface, which is hear as a squeal.
This doesn't work in reverse since you can only lift up one side of the pads. Matter of fact this can totally make the situation worse in reverse. The easiest way to fix this is to remove the pads and grind a slight bevel into the reverse leading edge or the edge that points down on the pads. You don't need to remove a lot of material just simply tale the 90 degree edge off the pad. Works every time.

cruzstyle
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Postby cruzstyle » Mon Feb 07, 2011 4:13 pm

mine did the same thing only in reverse. then i had teh pads replaced and now they always squeal but only has very slow slow speeds

ChitownPathfinder
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Postby ChitownPathfinder » Tue Feb 08, 2011 12:09 am

My truck had the same symptoms as you Kami and I replaced both rear driveshaft U-joints.... problem solved.

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bwareheim
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Postby bwareheim » Tue Feb 08, 2011 1:22 am

I had the same problem. My brake pads were real low and it was time to replace. They replaced both front and backs. Problem solved.

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Kami
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Postby Kami » Tue Feb 08, 2011 2:03 pm

ChitownPathfinder wrote:My truck had the same symptoms as you Kami and I replaced both rear driveshaft U-joints.... problem solved.
If its in neutral and the truck goes backwards and still makes the noise could it still be the driveshaft U-joints?

Thanks

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eieio
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Postby eieio » Tue Feb 08, 2011 2:05 pm

Kami wrote:
ChitownPathfinder wrote:My truck had the same symptoms as you Kami and I replaced both rear driveshaft U-joints.... problem solved.
If its in neutral and the truck goes backwards and still makes the noise could it still be the driveshaft U-joints?

Thanks
probably, because the driveshaft is still turning
spray some WD40 on the u-joints to see if the sound changes or goes away...........

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eieio
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Postby eieio » Tue Feb 08, 2011 2:08 pm

does the noise change or go away if you apply the brakes lightly?

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Storm4.0
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Postby Storm4.0 » Tue Feb 08, 2011 5:58 pm

I have the same noise Kami. It happens on occasion with mine, I'm convinced that it is the rear driveshaft on mine. I can usually duplicate the noise if I back a little on the aggressive side, if I reverse too easily starting out then it wont do it. If you listen closely with the door open the sound will resonate from under the chassis and sounds like a squeal with a slight buzz to it (if that makes any sense) :? .

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Kami
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Postby Kami » Wed Feb 09, 2011 5:13 pm

Hey everyone THANKS ALOT thus far for all the replys!!

So went to the dealer this morning and paid the 35$ diagnosics cost and it turns out its the breaks :(, front are both metal to metal and the lines need to be flushed and rear breaks cleaned up. total is $500 x.x lool (about right cost??)

Well at least i got 53k miles of them :)

Also they said the U-Joints (all driveshaft) are fine.

Thanks guys

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pawjr74
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Postby pawjr74 » Wed Feb 09, 2011 6:07 pm

Kami wrote:Hey everyone THANKS ALOT thus far for all the replys!!

So went to the dealer this morning and paid the 35$ diagnosics cost and it turns out its the breaks :(, front are both metal to metal and the lines need to be flushed and rear breaks cleaned up. total is $500 x.x lool (about right cost??)

Well at least i got 53k miles of them :)

Also they said the U-Joints (all driveshaft) are fine.

Thanks guys
I would skip getting the lines flushed and the rear brakes cleaned up. Sounds like those are just money makers for the dealer.

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Kami
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Postby Kami » Thu Feb 10, 2011 12:36 am

pawjr74 wrote:
Kami wrote:Hey everyone THANKS ALOT thus far for all the replys!!

So went to the dealer this morning and paid the 35$ diagnosics cost and it turns out its the breaks :(, front are both metal to metal and the lines need to be flushed and rear breaks cleaned up. total is $500 x.x lool (about right cost??)

Well at least i got 53k miles of them :)

Also they said the U-Joints (all driveshaft) are fine.

Thanks guys
I would skip getting the lines flushed and the rear brakes cleaned up. Sounds like those are just money makers for the dealer.
Agreeed, the pedal will go back to being normal when the new pads are installed becasue it will be noraml sized :) so the droped breake pedal is normal for the low breaks.

thanks again everyone !!


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