Rear Hatch Hydraulics
Moderator: volvite
Make sure you start a new thread & add lots of pictures and a really good how-to! Parts are cheap enough & it doesn't look like it would take too long to complete. I can easily be persuaded by cheap & functional mods, especially if someone else has done them.volvite wrote:Love that link. I think I might have to do this.
Got the new glass hatch struts from McMaster & installed them today. It appears that I "chose wisely" when I calculted the force required, because the replacements are pretty much identical to OEM with just a bit more oomph in the lift.
The McMaster is on top, the OEM on the bottom:
The McMaster is just a hair shorter, and I'm talking maybe a mm or 2. They are also obviously much beefier, so I hope they last longer than the OEM. The part number at McMaster-Carr is 9416K162. It's their gas spring with both ends threaded, 13.74" extended length, 5.47" stroke. The force I got is 30, which seems pretty much identical to stock. I'd think a 40 would work also, and would really get that glass hatch open quickly. $12.47 each & they have really good shipping times.
The McMaster is on top, the OEM on the bottom:
The McMaster is just a hair shorter, and I'm talking maybe a mm or 2. They are also obviously much beefier, so I hope they last longer than the OEM. The part number at McMaster-Carr is 9416K162. It's their gas spring with both ends threaded, 13.74" extended length, 5.47" stroke. The force I got is 30, which seems pretty much identical to stock. I'd think a 40 would work also, and would really get that glass hatch open quickly. $12.47 each & they have really good shipping times.
1. Prop the glass hatch openSteveFinn wrote:How do you replace the glass struts? I thought I should ask before I break something. Do you unscrew the ends while they are still attached to the glass or is there a way to remove the strut from the glass with the 'end' still attached?
2. twist/unscrew the upper part of the strut from the plastic mount. Careful! You may want to place a rag over the top of the strut as you are unscrewing it because it could pop up and scratch the glass. (you could also remove the lower mounts first, but mine wouldn't budge in the installed position).
3. once the top is detached, use a small regular screwdriver and pop out the lower retaining clip on both sides. Once those are off, if you pull the strut toward the rear of the vehicle, it will easily come off the ball mount.
4. You'll have to carefully unscrew the plastic ball mounts & transfer those onto the new struts.
5. screw the struts into the upper mounts first. This will give you more leverage to compress the strut a bit to get it on the ball mount.
6. Pop the retaining clips back on. This is probably the hardest part of the whole process, but I had great luck using needle nose pliers.
200lb or 225lb?
About to order my hatch door struts from McMaster-Carr (total shipped $44 vs. $80 from dealer here in BC), but should I get 200lb or 225lb version?
From what I've read here, both work well, just want to hear some opinions. Although it might be funny, don't really want my kids to get launched when opening the door!
From what I've read here, both work well, just want to hear some opinions. Although it might be funny, don't really want my kids to get launched when opening the door!
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silver x0ne
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- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 10:45 pm
- Location: DFW, TX
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