I by-passed my in radiator tranny cooler

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kelleyo
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Postby kelleyo » Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:06 am

I did the swap today when the Pathy was on the lift getting new tires. Good news. Tranny fluid is clear and clean!!!


outoforder
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pg 8 bellwilliam

Postby outoforder » Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:36 am

So are most people in agreement that the way to go is the diagram from pg 8 of this thread?

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kelleyo
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Postby kelleyo » Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:39 am

BMXPath wrote:
bellwilliam wrote: Before
Image

After
Image


Yes this is how I did it. Took longer to get the shield off than the swap. Very easy job.

only1path
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Postby only1path » Sat Feb 25, 2012 12:59 pm

I did my bypass today and ATF looks dark red.i'm assuming that's a good sign..time to get it changed...thanks guys for the information...

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wilto
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Postby wilto » Sun Feb 26, 2012 4:56 pm

Just got my 2007 Pathfinder and will be getting the bypass done in the next week or so.

The coolant is nice and green, how do I check the ATF? I'm looking for a dark red color yea?

Also I have noticed that if I'm going 45/50 and coasting and put the gas on there is a slight thud/jolt as it gets into gear not sure if its 3rd or 4th, no operational problems and everything is working just fine apart from the little jolt. Should I be worried?

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Lord Farquaad
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Postby Lord Farquaad » Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:39 pm

I bypassed my in radiator tranny cooler a few weeks ago. Whilst driving around town with nothing hooked up to the towbar, the tranny cooler temperature is such that I can keep my finger on the cooler. It is not very hot.

This weekend I had my caravan hooked up and did a lot of mountain passes in 92F ambient temperatures. I guess the Pathy had a good workout this weekend. When I stopped at the top of some passes, I felt the tranny cooler and could not keep my finger on it, that is how hot it was. I guess, water being a better conductor of heat than air, the in-radiator cooler would have helped some.

Two questions. Has any of you done a more scientific test by comparing the ATF temperature with and without the in-radiator cooler? Guess same ambient temperature, up same incline, pulling same load? Secondly, what is the operating temperature of the ATF inside the gearbox and when should warning bells be sounded? I would like to install an electric fan activated by a temperature switch, but need to know the operating conditions. Adding a second air cooler could help, but I will be doing trips in 113F ambient conditions, and think forced cooling is maybe the better option. Maybe even some water injection.

At what temperature will an AT gearbox destroy itself?

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FLiPMaRC
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Postby FLiPMaRC » Mon Feb 27, 2012 1:24 pm

8) Awesome thread. Just read all 29 pages :lol:

I just picked up a brand new 2012 SV a week ago. My friend who has a 2009 S with 106k miles told me he hasn't had any transmission problems. So I may not need to do the bypass mod. And then again he's the one that told me to go get a transmission cooler installed. Turns out we already have two and I had to tell him :lol:

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wilto
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Postby wilto » Sat Mar 03, 2012 6:15 pm

Ok so I did the ATF bypass.
Just a few questions....

So the closed loop will just have the same ATF fluid going through it until I change out the radiator?

I live in North West Florida so from May to September it is 90F+.
At what point should I be worried that the bypass may cause damage?

We let a little of the ATF fluid out of course......no milkshake but it was brown.
Image

Would you recommend an ATF flush/change, and what would a good price be on one of these? Sears do ATF exchange for $100.

pandarturo88
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Postby pandarturo88 » Sat Mar 03, 2012 7:34 pm

Lord f there is a post regrading three differences in temperature.I believe on of the senior members here tested it on his bully. If you do a search I'm sure you'll be able to find your answer

martyf250
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Postby martyf250 » Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:46 am

I have just shy of 80,000mi and went to do the bypass last night but on the ends of the black plastic air dam are bolts with those square clips that are supposed to not turn. Well of course everything is rusted. I sprsayed them down and will hit with heat tonight to try and break loose..anyone have any other suggestions?

slavabon
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Postby slavabon » Mon Mar 05, 2012 10:50 am

Are you talking about removing the metal plate in order to get to the Bottom of the radiator? All those bolts should come out fine, even if rusted - Just let them soak a little. Don't melt the plastic shroud with the heat. Just apply more steady pressure and they will come out fine.

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Lord Farquaad
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Postby Lord Farquaad » Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:10 pm

pandarturo88 wrote:Lord f there is a post regrading three differences in temperature.I believe on of the senior members here tested it on his bully. If you do a search I'm sure you'll be able to find your answer
Found it, thanks. :D

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Tue Mar 06, 2012 7:50 am

slavabon wrote:Are you talking about removing the metal plate in order to get to the Bottom of the radiator? All those bolts should come out fine, even if rusted - Just let them soak a little. Don't melt the plastic shroud with the heat. Just apply more steady pressure and they will come out fine.
A couple of mine sheared off, if you live in a rust-belt area, I recommend leaving the plates on unless you want to have to drill out a bunch of bolts and replace... :(

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NVSteve
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Postby NVSteve » Wed Mar 07, 2012 9:48 am

Can someone do a quick & short summary of what symptoms start showing when in milkshake mode?

martyf250
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Postby martyf250 » Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:03 am

Did the bypass last night with 80,022mi! yikes, thank god no mixing. looked a nice cherry red color. connected the tubes and put the air dam and skid plate back up. No to solve the timing chain guide buzz! :x


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