hi all,
i have a 2006 pathfinder with a tranny problem well the car is all fine until it shifts to the 4th when it shifts to the 4th it get stuck there so if i slow down i stay in the 4th even if i fully stop it stay on the 4th so when i move again its like tring to move a train the only way to get it out of the 4th is to fully turn off the car and then start again ,now am using the car while the shifter is in "3" but i cant go over 120km/h
i took it to a friend of mine and he did obd check but there is no codes
if please anybody tells me what am facing before i open the can of worms and wait for the parts which takes forever
tranny stuck in 4th
Moderator: volvite
You have not given a lot of info yet so my questions are…
Did you just get the PF? Did it ever show “D” on the display? (The number 5 is never ever displayed) In the top right corner does the “OD OFF” light up? If so, there is a small button on the gear lever that activates “OD OFF”. On mine, the only time “4” displays is when “OD OFF” has been activated.
By the way, the torq converter will not lock up in 4th (only 3rd & 5th gears) and will also give poor MPG.
Did you just get the PF? Did it ever show “D” on the display? (The number 5 is never ever displayed) In the top right corner does the “OD OFF” light up? If so, there is a small button on the gear lever that activates “OD OFF”. On mine, the only time “4” displays is when “OD OFF” has been activated.
By the way, the torq converter will not lock up in 4th (only 3rd & 5th gears) and will also give poor MPG.
Thanks for trying to help the car have 200.000 km on it i think its around 140k mile
the car have only 123D and Od button once you click the o/d button its shows number 4 and when its on it shows D
the car is fine until it reach the 4th gear it get stuck there and you have to switch off the switch on the car so now i drive it while the stick is in 3rd
the mpg is super bad also
the ecu is fine a mechanic hooked it to the obd and tried resting the tranny ecu and told me if it didn't work he will have to remove the whole thing and to start looking for oil and parts
i checked the oil its burnt very bad , i went to look for the trany oil and filter no body have it accept the vampire dealer and only they have a 20 letter drum for 150 usd .the oil was changed 40.000 mile before the filter is unchangeable
they tranny shift very smooth no harsh shift no delay and no slipping
i will change the oil today at dealer and see what happens
also i want to ask what type of oil other than Nissan i can use because their price is a rip off and i can only find it at the dealer
the car have only 123D and Od button once you click the o/d button its shows number 4 and when its on it shows D
the car is fine until it reach the 4th gear it get stuck there and you have to switch off the switch on the car so now i drive it while the stick is in 3rd
the mpg is super bad also
the ecu is fine a mechanic hooked it to the obd and tried resting the tranny ecu and told me if it didn't work he will have to remove the whole thing and to start looking for oil and parts
i checked the oil its burnt very bad , i went to look for the trany oil and filter no body have it accept the vampire dealer and only they have a 20 letter drum for 150 usd .the oil was changed 40.000 mile before the filter is unchangeable
they tranny shift very smooth no harsh shift no delay and no slipping
i will change the oil today at dealer and see what happens
also i want to ask what type of oil other than Nissan i can use because their price is a rip off and i can only find it at the dealer
hi! just if this will be helpful to other people so after so studying of the tranny and ask my mechanic friend, Its the valve train and its effected to some Nissan cars Navara and xtrea and the pathfinder
i will buy a 2nd hand tranny to put in the car now and i will try to fix this one as a diy project and i will post up here the process and the parts required
2- dont listen to nissan about the 100,000 km or so transmission oil change
i think they design that for cold places if you live in a hot place keep it around 50k km as the oil gets really burned + the thing dont have a filter which will make the solenoids stuck and nissan only sells the whole thing for 1800 usd
i will buy a 2nd hand tranny to put in the car now and i will try to fix this one as a diy project and i will post up here the process and the parts required
2- dont listen to nissan about the 100,000 km or so transmission oil change
i think they design that for cold places if you live in a hot place keep it around 50k km as the oil gets really burned + the thing dont have a filter which will make the solenoids stuck and nissan only sells the whole thing for 1800 usd
I think you mean "valve body" and not "valve train." When dealing with the RE5R05A automatic transmissions, it's important to know that they are all not the same. There are several differant part numbers and several differant valve bodies depending on year, model, and trim level of vehicle. For example, in 2006 there are three differant part numbers for the automatic transmission in the Pathfinder 4WD: one for the SE Off-road, one for the non off-road SE and XE and another number for the LE. It's not an easy transmission to rebuild and best left to an experienced transmission rebuilder.
well just for the record it was a bad valve train due to the dealer taking money to "change the oil" but he only keep the car for a full one day and skip the oil change ..... to be safe every 30,000 km change the oil
anyway i replaced the valve body and bought the oil in a 90 litter can (nissan matic J)
for the old valve body i found some diagrams on the net so i will try replacing the valves and keep it as a spare part .
also i think its a bad design putting the ecu inside the tranny , for sure that thing is frying .
changed the centre diff oil (matic d)
front final drive api gl-5 80w90 (gl5 is important because of the synchronizres)
rear 75w-90 (gl5 is important because of the synchronizres)
3times more expensive than 80w but bought it to be safier
tried to buy these oils from nissan dealer (front end and rear end ) but in the begging they said they dont sell it and they bring it from japan in 1000 liter cans and if i want they will sell me the 1000 Liter
, after going to the repair section the maintenance guy told me they just buy locally from an agip dealer and i went bought it there .
for engine oil iam putting castrol gtx or motorcraft 10-w40 temp range is 25c winter and 50c summer .
anyway i replaced the valve body and bought the oil in a 90 litter can (nissan matic J)
for the old valve body i found some diagrams on the net so i will try replacing the valves and keep it as a spare part .
also i think its a bad design putting the ecu inside the tranny , for sure that thing is frying .
changed the centre diff oil (matic d)
front final drive api gl-5 80w90 (gl5 is important because of the synchronizres)
rear 75w-90 (gl5 is important because of the synchronizres)
3times more expensive than 80w but bought it to be safier
tried to buy these oils from nissan dealer (front end and rear end ) but in the begging they said they dont sell it and they bring it from japan in 1000 liter cans and if i want they will sell me the 1000 Liter
, after going to the repair section the maintenance guy told me they just buy locally from an agip dealer and i went bought it there .for engine oil iam putting castrol gtx or motorcraft 10-w40 temp range is 25c winter and 50c summer .
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