Back story, trying to do this: (Note: It's just layin up there)
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So after much discussion in previous thread, here's what I came up with: (My apologies in advance, once I set my mind to something, it's dive in head first, thankfully my mind can be switched....)

Also note I found the original pic on some Australian construction rack website... I toned it down a bit and photochopped it for a better illustration of what I wanted....



I need opinions here! .....

MGJ

MGJ,

It looks good & you seem to have put a good deal of thought into it. The 4 side tiedown points I understand, but could you explain why you need a front point? What are you going to attach to it? Since it is a part of the rack, wouldn't it just be better to use a tiedown point elsewhere, such as the front tow hook like I use for my kayaks? I doubt that the rack would fail, but if it does, nothing will stop the whole thing from flying off. Thus my question, as I'm sure I'm missing something.

I'd probably go the aluminum route. How heavy is your boat?

NVSteve wrote:could you explain why you need a front point?

Maybe it's taking the place of running it down the hood to the far front? I can appreciate the desire not to have something rubbing on the body, protected or not. I do agree though that an alternate mount point would ensure more security. I like the design overall though.

Margin, when/if you do take off the end caps/rails I've got some requests for pictures or just to know what's under there. Trying to determine the feasibility of running some power up there.

Nice work Marginjoey, overacheiving as always I see.

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Have you looked around the www.yakima.com website for a potential solution? I have always appreciated their quality.

Ok, the need for explanation, and I really appreciate the comments gang, keep 'em coming!

NVSteve and Blink32 Indeed it was for a front tiedown point..... No problem on the pics, if I can safely remove those end caps... Looks tough. Ok, So, I thought about it some more, and realzied with the help of a great friend (even if he does drive a GMC ) that an entire new rack is over $600 in material alone, and while we never charge each other (I'm the I.T. -PC guy), I did not foresee the unreal amount of labor involved, NOR did I take into account just how strong (or weak) that factory roof or factory rack really is.

GreyBrick, thanks- I overdo everything! And Yes, I ignored my own rule, to make the BODY/FRAME do the work, not the rack, one good breeze and WOOSH off goes the boat.
bbermann- Yes, I checked Yakima.... ehhh at best.
NVSteve-- 2 guys lift it easy, maybe 150lbs?

Thanks guys... it's a work in progress.

As of right now, it sounds like the front mount hitch

OR a bull bar

MGJ
(MARK)

MGJ, here's a crappy photo of how I have mine attached to the front tow hook. The plastic/rubberish tubes covering the rope are great because they are so soft that they just "stick" in place & don't move around at all. Even if they did, they're way too soft to mar the paint.



I use Thule load bars, because they are square, and Yakima saddles. You could just get either of the load bars & then get the load stops to hold the boat on the horizontal. Anyway, if you want to save a buck, I'd certainly look at both systems and see if you can piece something together from the 2 of them.

Contrary to what a couple of other people have mentioned, the stock racks are extremely durable, useful & strong, at least on mine. Before I even outfitted the top, I threw some thick climbing rope around each side, and my girlfriend and I spent a number of minutes tugging at it, completely rocking the Pathie. They stood up to that abuse extremely well.

NVSteve wrote:they're way too soft to mar the paint

To me its all this junk that would get trapped between the protector and the paint that I would worry about. But on the flip side you're not driving around like that 24-7 so the likely hood of causing any damage is significantly lower. Although a front mount receiver with a draw bar sticking out 12" or so would make for a might fine forward tie down point

I really need to find a Frontier in a parking lot I can look over. I think I'll drive around today and see what I can find.

Thanks for the pic, unsure how big the Kayaks are, they look like (from this angle) like the tie down ropes are nearly vertical there. My issue is, if you scroll back to my orig. first pic., is that the 2" ratchet strap

is a bit beefier and wider than the rope, AND I ratchet the crap out of it. Also, I believe you can skip the tow hook cuz the frame is nearby, therefore even load distribution on the 'yaks!

I don't understand why Nissan would do this, but I guess the Xterra is more for the outdoorsy type where the Pathy is more utility and soccer mom (OOOOo I cringe! )

Still lookin!

MGJ

EDIT: Anyone successfully get those rack end caps off without destroying them???

Marginjoey wrote:Thanks for the pic, unsure how big the Kayaks are, they look like (from this angle) like the tie down ropes are nearly vertical there.

Each one is 16' long. It isn't vertical because I don't want most of my boats hanging out over the hood in free space & oncoming wind. I have them centered on the yak cradles/roof rack, and it's just about right (front & rear have the same distance of overhang).

My issue is, if you scroll back to my orig. first pic., is that the 2" ratchet strap is a bit beefier and wider than the rope, AND I ratchet the crap out of it.

Before going with rope, I had always used straps. One thing you need to do is twist the straps before connecting to the boat. The biggest reason for this is that if you use the straps untwisted, they will flutter and eat through paint in no time flat. Also, if you twist them, you can also easily use tubing.

If you ratchet down the front hardcore, you will probably do more harm than good. It puts quite a bit of stress on a boat, but more importantly, it puts a huge amount of stress on the rack. My fronts are snug enough that there is no play in the ropes, but that's it. If the rack fails & the front tiedowns are super tight, the boats going to launch forward.

Also, I believe you can skip the tow hook cuz the frame is nearby, therefore even load distribution on the 'yaks!

There's frame, but I would have to go around the bumper & up and underneath to attach. Too many sharp angles and rub points involved, too much plastic bearing the load and too much free play is involved (I've tried it). With the tow hook, I tighten things down at the house, drive a few miles over speedbumps & rough roads to the gas station, tighten down again & I'm good to go for 500+ miles. When I attached under the bumper, I had to pull over and tighten every so many miles.

All valid points...

I ratchet to tightness, not damaging the boat or rack... Always untwist very true, we've been tieing up quads and boats a for a long time, we've got it down to a science now... One more thing I do, is loop the loose end back through the loop AND the tiedown point, this way, if the hook jumps, the knot will hold it in place, OR at LEAST keep the bike/boat/object still enough to realize it before it comes loose.

EDIT: Looks like you do something similar! Nice and safe! Smart!
EDIT AGAIN: Nooooow I see the tube you mean! Hmm!!

I figured the picture u posted was decieving, re: vertical ropes.... otherwise your Kayak would be like 26' long, and that's doubtful, unless you row Crew?.

MGJ

BUMP:

Anyone successfully get those rack end caps off without destroying them??? I thought I read someone doesnt even have a roof rack here somewhere..?

MGJ