Battery terminals

Topics related to Lights, Radio, Stereo, Headunits, Alternators...

Moderator: volvite

User avatar
porksoda
Posts: 204
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Clovis,NM

Battery terminals

Postby porksoda » Mon Feb 09, 2015 4:28 pm

Well I have been looking at my battery terminals and they seems very cheap and thin. I am worried about them getting corroded easily. I am wondering what everyone is doing on here when replacing there original battery terminals.

Here are some photos of mine:
Image

Image

Image


User avatar
eieio
Sponsored Member
Posts: 1841
Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:42 am
Location: Prescott, Az.

Re: Battery terminals

Postby eieio » Mon Feb 09, 2015 4:55 pm

porksoda wrote:Well I have been looking at my battery terminals and they seems very cheap and thin. I am worried about them getting corroded easily. I am wondering what everyone is doing on here when replacing there original battery terminals.

Here are some photos of mine:
Image

Image


Image
the plus side looks pretty worked over
replace both cable clamps (the negative cable clamps rarely tighten down on the post anyway)
keep them clean & greased
get a battery that does not leak or seep between the battery case & terminal posts (Kirkland from Costco in both of my trucks for over two years now, no corrosion at all)
:)

User avatar
smj999smj
Site Admin
Posts: 6062
Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:13 pm
Location: Prospect, VA

Postby smj999smj » Mon Feb 09, 2015 4:59 pm

The nice thing about the positive cable is that you can actually get just the clamp end of the cable, unlike the negative side. I've already replaced the positive cable end on my 2006 with a replacement part from Nissan; it wasn't that expensive. On the negative side, I cut the end off and installed one of those "temporary cable ends" from the auto parts store. I spray them down with Permatex anti-corrosion spray for batteries to keep them from corroding again.

User avatar
porksoda
Posts: 204
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Clovis,NM

Postby porksoda » Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:44 pm

Image

Image

Image

puffdc
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat May 17, 2014 3:26 pm
Location: Boulder, CO

Postby puffdc » Thu Mar 12, 2015 9:02 am

What exactly do you need to do to replace the negative clamp? My clamp was so corroded that it broke off. Thanks in advance!

User avatar
eieio
Sponsored Member
Posts: 1841
Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:42 am
Location: Prescott, Az.

Postby eieio » Thu Mar 12, 2015 9:11 am

puffdc wrote:What exactly do you need to do to replace the negative clamp? My clamp was so corroded that it broke off. Thanks in advance!
see smj999smj's post (3 above)
it the cable is not long enough to reach the battery anymore, replace the cable and clamp
it's not rocket science

puffdc
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat May 17, 2014 3:26 pm
Location: Boulder, CO

Postby puffdc » Thu Mar 12, 2015 9:16 am

eieio wrote:
puffdc wrote:What exactly do you need to do to replace the negative clamp? My clamp was so corroded that it broke off. Thanks in advance!
see smj999smj's post (3 above)
it the cable is not long enough to reach the battery anymore, replace the cable and clamp
it's not rocket science
The pics don't show up anymore...so i'm not sure what he did? Hence, the reason I asked.
Phew, glad it's not rocket science...

User avatar
smj999smj
Site Admin
Posts: 6062
Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:13 pm
Location: Prospect, VA

Postby smj999smj » Thu Mar 12, 2015 10:32 am

For the negative cable, just get one of these. Cut the oil clamp off, use a razor blade to cut back the insulation, and clamp on the new one. You can find them at any auto parts store:

http://www.hotrodwires.com/cart/images/ ... Rev-lg.jpg

puffdc
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat May 17, 2014 3:26 pm
Location: Boulder, CO

Postby puffdc » Thu Mar 12, 2015 12:18 pm

smj999smj wrote:For the negative cable, just get one of these. Cut the oil clamp off, use a razor blade to cut back the insulation, and clamp on the new one. You can find them at any auto parts store:

http://www.hotrodwires.com/cart/images/ ... Rev-lg.jpg
Thank you.

User avatar
ShipFixer
Posts: 779
Joined: Sun May 24, 2009 9:52 am
Location: San Diego, CA

Postby ShipFixer » Sat Apr 04, 2015 8:56 pm

What's the part number for the positive side? Mine is refusing to clamp tight anymore and I'm having trouble finding it online...

User avatar
ShipFixer
Posts: 779
Joined: Sun May 24, 2009 9:52 am
Location: San Diego, CA

Postby ShipFixer » Sat Apr 04, 2015 9:03 pm

Well, Google found it right away elsewhere. Nevermind!

User avatar
disallow
Site Admin
Posts: 2820
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Postby disallow » Mon Apr 06, 2015 6:19 am

Just did mine a few weeks ago. Mine was totally busted, I'm surprised it still worked at all!

KonaPathinder
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:10 pm
Location: Hawaii

Positive terminal replacement 2008

Postby KonaPathinder » Tue Apr 07, 2015 9:46 am

I just finished replacing the positive terminal on my wife's 2008. The positive clamp/ring terminal is crimped to the the cable coming from the alternator(I believe). It was pretty short, so I didn't want to remove the crimped connection, I just modified it. Either way, the rest of the positive attachments to the positive side of the battery are bolted to the ring/terminal that corrodes, or in my case, breaks. See first pic.
Image
I unbolted the accessories that were attached to the positive clamp/ring terminal, and cut the broken ring off of the alternator wire(I believe). In the pic below, it's the thick wire with the flat tab that used to be the clamp/ring with a hole in it. That hole in the tab was a bolt that the rest of the positive connections attached to the positive side of the battery using. I just took a drill bit and drilled out the bolt from the underside of the tab.
Image
I bought a replacement terminal connector from nissan($10/very common) that comes with a ring/clamp and a bolt of attaching the remaining positive accessories. In the final pic the new terminal is on the bottom of the stack, the modified tab is placed in the middle with the bolt from the new terminal going through the hole I drilled in the old terminal, and the remaining positive connections are on top of that. Basically the modified tab is sandwiched by the ring terminal with the bolt on the bottom, and the positive accessory connections on the top.
Image[/url]

User avatar
FLiPMaRC
Posts: 477
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 1:15 pm
Location: NJ

Postby FLiPMaRC » Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:27 am

I just want to double check before I order. This one should fit right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-NISSAN- ... 24&vxp=mtr

Dealer wanted $50 to replace it :roll: :lol:

User avatar
eieio
Sponsored Member
Posts: 1841
Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:42 am
Location: Prescott, Az.

Postby eieio » Wed Aug 05, 2015 11:50 am

FLiPMaRC wrote: I just want to double check before I order. This one should fit right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-NISSAN- ... 24&vxp=mtr
looks right
you can contact the seller and ask for verification
FLiPMaRC wrote: Dealer wanted $50 to replace it :roll: :lol:
:!: no surprise there :!:
that's how they assure themselves of no repeat customers :shock:


Return to “R51 Electrical”