Hi everyone.
It's been a while since I posted. I'm ready to go wheeling again. Just been real busy with my new business and all, son left for the Navy, daughter in college, blah blah blah....
Now that I have a bit of time, I just wanted to post something that I have been wanting to do for a long time. My Articulation Test.
Then 05+ Pathy has been crticized for it's lack of a true off-roader due to it's limited articulation. However, with a 17mm box wrench and 7 minutes, you can disconnect the swaybars before wheeling.

I tell you, disconnecting the swaybars before htting the trails makes a HUGE difference in both traction and ride. Smooooth as buddah.

Here are some pics.

Swaybars Connected:


Swaybars Disconnected:


And the video:


I'll post my pics and video at Borrego Springs Coyote Canyon next.

sweet video.

forgive my ignorance, but your saying to disconnect the front and rear swaybars... right?

~mike

ragpaoa wrote:Hi everyone.
It's been a while since I posted.

No doubt. Talk about dropping off the map...

Now that I have a bit of time, I just wanted to post something that I have been wanting to do for a long time. My Articulation Test.
Then 05+ Pathy has been crticized for it's lack of a true off-roader due to it's limited articulation. However, with a 17mm box wrench and 7 minutes, you can disconnect the swaybars before wheeling.

You sure spent a lot of time with the various angles. Did you do this by yourself, or did you make your wife help you? Good stuff! It does show a marked difference. I need to look up a diagram with the swaybar connects, because I just can't visualize it. I wonder if quick disconnects could be rigged? With the swaybar disconnected, you don't think there is too much stress or severe angles involved? I love the idea of more articulation, like who wouldn't? Glad to hear you are still alive, breathing & messing with your PF!

Oh yeah, still around. Once in while I would lurk around to see what's going on. I don't want to miss another event like the Death Valley trip we had the beginning of the year. Plus, I always love to see the new pics you post on your trips. Beautiful shots BTW.

MM: Yes, both front and rear swaybars are disconnected.

Steve:
Nah, video camera and a tripod, and myself only. Wife was at work. The area was near my house called Proctor Valley.

There's absolutely no stress whatsoever with the swaybars disconnected. Keep in mind that I do not remove the swaybars, I just disconnect the links when I offroad.
I think it's better for the suspension overall to disconnect it while offroading. My reasoning: The swaybars pratically connect the suspension to the frame via a bar and 2 links. The links limit the suspension travel, but the links are the weakest link. The suspension both front and rear have bump stops that do a good job in preventing over-travel, and the OME suspension upgrade is pretty darn rugged. No worries there. As a matter of fact, I always disconnect the SBs when I 4wheel, and a push it pretty hard.

My measurements show a gain of wheel travel of 1.25" in the rear, and about 1" in the front. No severe angles. However, what really makes a difference is how 'active' the articulation becomes. Over rocks and ruts, my wheels don't want to leave the ground. Like I said, smooooth as budduh.

All it takes is a 17mm wrench (that I keep in the truck) and removing the top bolt on each side, pushing the swaybar up and out of the way (keeping the links attached to the LCA) and your good to go. When done wheeling, just re-connect. Literally takes 7 minutes total front and rear.
If we can fabricate a quick disconnect, this would be awesome.
I'll post some pics soon to show you how easy it is.

One thing I forgot. If you do this for offroading, I strongly recommend the OME or PRG suspension upgrade.

ragpaoa wrote: If we can fabricate a quick disconnect, this would be awesome.
I'll post some pics soon to show you how easy it is.

I'd like to see those. I'll also have to see if I have a 17mm wrench in my kit. Surely someone here will be able to devise a quick disconnect of sorts. I know Jeep has them, and if I'm not mistaken, they also have remote disconnects. I just haven't been paying any attention to much of anything outside Nissan land. I've been on 2-3 wheels way too often in the Pathie, so added articulation is pretty much at the top of my wish list.

With the swaybars disconnected, you can definitely push it harder...I have only done the rear, not the front. I haven't done the front because it looks to me like it would hit the steering arms if I pushed the bar up, or left it hanging.

It seems to me we should be able to do something like this:

http://www.4x4xplor.com/homediscos.html

I am also thinking of adding some limit straps, the rear shocks don't have a whole lot of travel. I broke one of the Rancho 9000s where the eye attaches to the rod last year. I have the OMEs now and I think they may have even less.

Hey socal, next time we go wheelin, come join us. I'm out of the San Diego area. We need more 3rd gen pathys out in the trail.

I've driven my Pathy hard out in trails without the swaybars, front and rear. But the limit straps sounds like a good added safeguard just in case.

As far as the fronts, if you push the bar up a bit, it may touch the steering arm, but it's no problem since the bar pivots anyway if need be since it's not linked. So far, I haven't any problems on the trail.

Thanks for the link, let me see what I can do to make something similar.

socal4x wrote: It seems to me we should be able to do something like this:

http://www.4x4xplor.com/homediscos.html

That's the ticket. Although I would only feel comfortable if super heavy grade parts were used. I'm hoping that someone will be able to come up with a passable solution.

NVSteve wrote:I would only feel comfortable if super heavy grade parts were used.

I don't know if you have a TSC out by you or some other farm or industrial supply house but they make heavy duty hitch pin releases for farm equip. Towing places may have them also.

Let me take some pictures this afternoon and post them. Maybe you guys can help me come up with a solution for a quick disconnect.

The good news is that all the links on all four corners are pratically the same so we don't have to worry about different links.
The bad news (well, not too bad) is that the links have the bolt as part of the link. In the proposed jeep example, the bolt is separate. That means we may have to drill a hole through the bolt for a Cotter Pin. The advantage though, is that the original bolt is still intact making the solution more rugged than the proposed separate clevis pin solution.

Pics soon...

Here is one solution from a Ford Explorer. The 2002-2008 Explorers have a similar setup like ours.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//sh ... p?t=224149

But we have more wheel travel and ground clearance. My neighbor has one and it's no where close to what our Pathy have. The Explorer's belly is too exposed and too low.

I was thinking we could cannibalize Jeep disconnects, but they are too long...

www.mcmaster.com sells rod end linkages (heim joints), some of them have greaseable zerk fittings attached, which is a cool bonus..

Check this out...


at www.mcmaster.com product # 92401A625


---this is just an idea...problem is that we have the metric system to deal with. I haven't searched too much to see what they have in metric.


---or this.....http://www.midwestcontrol.com/catdispla ... php?pg=164

Here's some fodder to help with the visuals: