Hi all,

I've searched through several forums and a service manual for the answer to this question and I wondered if anyone here could confirm the answer for me. I would like to install manual locking hubs on my 2004 Pathfinder Chinook edition (Canada only model- basically an SE with some LE features as standard equipment including All Mode drive). From what I gathered reading the service manual and other forums, there are two oil pumps for the clutch pack that operates the front drive. One is an electric pump that goes on when stopped in gear, travelling at low speed or in reverse. The other is operated by the rear drive shaft (called mainshaft in the manual) when the 4 wheel drive switch is moved to "Auto" or "4H". According to the manual, the electric pump is turned off when in 2 wheel drive and at that time there is no pressure to the clutch pack as it isn't operating the front drive. If all this is correct (as I understand it), installing locking hubs should not cause any problem other than perhaps having a light in the 4WD system occasionally flashing because the shaft isn't turning. Based on what I've read, oil pressure to the clutch pack is not required when in 2WD. Naturally it would be necessary to lock the hubs to use 4WD. Until then, gas mileage should go up and there should be less wear and tear on some of the front drive components since they would no longer be driven when in 2WD.

Does this sound about right or have I missed something? For the record, someone on another forum says he's had locking hubs on hi 2003 LE for 3 years and 77,000 km with no ill effects.

Andy

Wish to do the same with my 01 4x4 SE...... can we really improve MPG?

Terrano R50 wrote:Wish to do the same with my 01 4x4 SE...... can we really improve MPG?

According to what I've read on this and several other forums, there can be an improvement of anywhere from 1 to 3 mpg (U.S. gallons - City / Highway) according to the majority of people who spoke about it. Adding locking hubs to the non-Allmode Pathys presents no special problems and, in fact, the Warn company lists some for the Pathfinder up to the 2001 model. My particular question is regarding the Allmode 4 wheel drive as found on the LE. My main reasons for wanting the hubs is to reduce wear and tear on the front drive parts and to free up a bit of horsepower for when I tow my trailer.

Andy

On the AUTO-mode systems, the front shaft is always turning regardless of what mode you are in, even 2WD. The AUTO-mode system is similar to GM's Smart-Trac II system. Under most circumstances, you are best to leave it in AUTO mode. The AUTO mode system not only sends power to the front wheels when it senses a slip, but also anticipates a slip condition, like when you are at a stop and go to wide open throttle, and sends power to the front wheels to prevent you from spinning out. I've taken long trips in 2WD and AUTO and didn't notice any difference in gas mileage. The system works well; I would just leave it alone. If you really want good gas mileage, a Pathfinder isn't what you should own.

Yes, I'm aware that the front driveshaft is always turning, whether being driven by power from the transfer case or by the front wheels . That is why there is little or no mileage difference between 4 WD and 2 WD use. I can see usefulness in leaving the system in "Auto" mode in the winter as one never knows when they'll find themselves on a slippery surface. On dry roads, especially in the summer, I can't see a good reason for leaving it in "Auto" unless I was planning on full throttle starts every time which I don't. In my case, I wanted the freewheeling option so as to ease wear and tear on the front driveline and to free up a bit of horsepower for towing. The improved fuel mileage would be a nice byproduct but is not the main purpose of the mod. Neither I nor Terrano R50 said we wanted "good gas mileage". He asked if locking hubs would improve the mileage he was presently getting. There is nothing wrong with wanting to improve a vehicle since most of them are compromises to suit the majority of potential buyers and to meet a price point. I am well aware that SUV's (Real ones, not the SUV shaped "station wagons" that are so popular) are harder on gas but I fail to see why it seems to bother you that anyone would want to improve their vehicle. No offence meant, but your last comment seems a bit elitist. We like our cars and many of us like to make them a better "fit" for us. I have no intention of leaving my cars (and motorcycles for that matter) "alone" as I have always tried to improve those parts of them that I felt could be better for my specific use. If you are against modifying vehicles, I think you may be in the wrong forum as I see a lot of topics concerning mods to vehicles so I think the majority of members here do that to some extent. Thanks for your comments but they really weren't helpful and certainly did not answer my question nor that of Terrano R50.

Andy

I think you took my comments the wrong way. I have nothing against modifications (I'm currently working on a thread on the mods I'm doing to my own Pathy in the R51 engine section). I worked for Nissan as a technician from 1985 through 2003 and currently have a 2006 LE and 2008 SE Pathys, so I've pretty much worked through the entire line-up of Pathfinders since their debut in the mid-80's with the exception of the current R52. I've seen and heard just about every method by people trying to wring out a little more gas mileage out of their Pathfinders, from switching to premium gas to adding chips, to playing with the timing... They were never good at gas mileage and probably the best thing to happen to them was adding the 5-spd. A/T in 2005. The obvious things are keep it properly tuned-up using NGK or genuine Nissan ignition parts, properly inflating tires and regular wheel alignments, etc. Choice of tires can make a big difference (I lost a mile per gallon switching from Michelin LTX M/S2's to Nitto Dura Grapplers) and the biggest difference I noticed in my own Pathy is when I started using cruise control as much as possible (gained 1.5 MPG compared to using only my heavy foot!).
As far as summer use for the AUTO mode, you can run into slippery situations on gravel roads, which would make it useful, as well as in rainy conditions. Where I live, they constant fill the potholes in with gray gravel that's like driving on marbles when they first lay it down!

Thanks for the clarification. I see what you were getting at. As I mentioned, gas savings were not my primary concern but rather a side benefit. And yes, the Pathys are hard on gas but small improvements here and there never hurt. In my case, although my trailer is not heavy (2,275 lbs dry) I like having some extra power available just in case I do run up against an unforeseen problem - such as a detour that sends me up a steeper than anticipated hill. As for Auto use, I rarely have to hit gravel roads around here other than the occasional construction site. It's the winter months that cause the traction problems.

Right now my biggest concern is an annoying drivetrain vibration that I've spent a fair chunk of cash trying to quell. It seems to be located in the front part of the drivetrain, as removing the front driveshaft really quiets it down (Still there but much reduced). The rear drive shaft was balanced, a half shaft replaced as well as the U-joints and a replacement front drive shaft and the front wheels were rebalanced. Installing locking hubs might help to locate the out of balance part more cheaply than replacing any more parts. My original worry was that such a vibration could cause problems under the stress of towing if it was located in the rear part of the drivetrain but now that it's been located in the front, it's less worrisome - I never tow in 4WD.

Andy

Andy
SMJ999SMJ

Thank you both for a great discussion and improving my overall knowledge of my 2001 .R50..SE.Auto. 4WD.
I've read the DIY of the Warn kit .but if I'm at best going to see
1MPG improvement, then I'll leave the hubs alone. ZERO off road for me in sunny SOCAL. Prob not going up in the mountains either.
Pathy is paid for ..and with 84k miles, she's got a lot of years of dependable service remaining...already paying $2.60+ /gal for Cali gas, so I need to do the recommended maintenance first...NGKs on order...getting the famed CEL and code for #4 igniter...
Does everyone recommend OEM igniters? how about Hitachi?
and doing all 6 verses one at a time?
Terrano R50

Hitachi is an OEM supplier to Nissan, so that's a good alternative to genuine Nissan. If you are only throwing the #4 cylinder code, I would just replace the #4 coil.

SMJ

Thanks for that intel..Hitachi FTW.
Question?... Cylinders 1-3-5 are on passenger side , correct ?

Terrano R50 wrote:SMJ

Thanks for that intel..Hitachi FTW.
Question?... Cylinders 1-3-5 are on passenger side , correct ?

Passenger side: 1-3-5
Driver's side: 2-4-6