moving this to a more specific forum and hoping to get some feedback...
Just bought a used 2005 pathfinder...119k miles...very happy so far but worried as to what I've gotten into.
I was aware of the trans/radiator problems before I bought and the previous owner had replaced the radiator and had the tranny rebuilt only 12k miles before.
So far there are a couple of things that need work but nothing major and they had their mechanic go over most of the basic stuff prior to selling.
My biggest concern is the timing chain...there is an audible rattle in the engine compartment and I've kinda ruled out the heatshields...sounds as if it's either the chain or maybe something in the passenger side engine compartment making the noise...
it definitely isn't a whine which is what I've heard the chain problem sounds like...more of just a rattle at idle...
concerned me enough to call a shop and ask how much to replace the chains and guides...1500.00 was what I was quoted...but I don't want to start throwing money at it right away...
Should I be concerned? And is there anyway to comfirm it's the timing chain or just risk it?
Thanks!
p.s. after driving it in really cold weather I'm still not sure if I'm just paranoid or not...when I drive I can't tell if it's whining or not...certainly doesn't sound like it but it does make more noise as I increase the rpms...not like a power-steering whine at all tho'
just don't know if I should have it looked at or not...
new to me 2005 pathfinder questions...
Moderator: volvite
I am not one of the gurus here.. (so wait for those) but in the meantime this is based on my experiences with Infinitis ( also Nissan) and i suspect it might be similar here.
-With them it was never the timing chain that needed replacing, just the guides. A much cheaper part.
Also a big part of the labor of a timing chain replacement (other than the also not cheap part itself) is the retime as part of install of a new chain
So if you tell the guy you want the chains done too, the timing labor and the chain cost will be in the estimate which is huge.
Just food for thought..
But I know soon our resident tech will chime in and hopefully he wont embarrass my answer too much
-With them it was never the timing chain that needed replacing, just the guides. A much cheaper part.
Also a big part of the labor of a timing chain replacement (other than the also not cheap part itself) is the retime as part of install of a new chain
So if you tell the guy you want the chains done too, the timing labor and the chain cost will be in the estimate which is huge.
Just food for thought..
But I know soon our resident tech will chime in and hopefully he wont embarrass my answer too much
It's kinda hard to give advice regarding a rattle or any noise one can't hear in person. 2005's had some rattle issues with the VIAS power valve actuator, but noise was typically around 2000-2400 RPM. The timing chain issues of the VQ40DE usually "whine," but if it has been worn almost to the brink of failure, I could see where it could cause a rattle (and you would need to replace, at least, the upper timing chains and tensioner faces). Low oil pressure and/or a malfunctioning variable valve timing actuator could cause valvetrain rattle as good a bad accessory drive or pulley bearing, water pump or fan bracket bearing. Only thing I can recommend is that if you can't figure out what it is, then you would be best have an auto tech familiar with these engines have a listen to it.
Thanks for the feedback...
I did notice yesterday that when I come to a stop my oil pressure does dip down on the low side but I don't get a warning light or anything.
I have also read that this can be due to a seal behind the back timing cover that fails. I'm just afraid I have jumped into a vehicle that I should have researched more, though I do actually love the way it drives and the way it looks.
I've spoken to a shop and I might drop it off next week and have them take a look at it.
If, in fact, it turns out to be just the guides is that something that can be accomplished w/o removing the entire front of the timing cover?
Thanks again
I did notice yesterday that when I come to a stop my oil pressure does dip down on the low side but I don't get a warning light or anything.
I have also read that this can be due to a seal behind the back timing cover that fails. I'm just afraid I have jumped into a vehicle that I should have researched more, though I do actually love the way it drives and the way it looks.
I've spoken to a shop and I might drop it off next week and have them take a look at it.
If, in fact, it turns out to be just the guides is that something that can be accomplished w/o removing the entire front of the timing cover?
Thanks again
The only part of the timing set that can be accessed without taking off the entire front cover is the primary chain tensioner; this is done in case the water pump, which is driven by the chain, needs to be replaced. Anything else would require the whole front cover to be removed. If that is needed, is doesn't make sense to not replace the entire timing set.
Oil pressure usually remains pretty steady on these engines and seldom drops much below the halfway mark. If the oil pressure is dropping down near the low mark, it's not a good sign. There is a plate that bolts to the back of the rear timing cover and the gasket can fail, causing low oil pressure. To my knowledge, Nissan does not offer a gasket for this and you must replace the entire rear cover to fix it. I haven't done one yet, but I believe the oil pan needs to be removed in order to replace this. The only good thing about this repair is that if you get an aftermarket timing set with upper tensioner assemblies, the only way to replace the entire upper tensioner assembly is to remove the rear timing cover so you can access the bolts; for those that just have the typical upper chain "whine," only the plastic faces of the tensioners that rides against the chains are replaced.
If you're oil pressure is low, it would be a good reason you are getting internal engine rattles as the variable valve timing is oil-controlled and the three chain tensioners are all oil-fed.
Oil pressure usually remains pretty steady on these engines and seldom drops much below the halfway mark. If the oil pressure is dropping down near the low mark, it's not a good sign. There is a plate that bolts to the back of the rear timing cover and the gasket can fail, causing low oil pressure. To my knowledge, Nissan does not offer a gasket for this and you must replace the entire rear cover to fix it. I haven't done one yet, but I believe the oil pan needs to be removed in order to replace this. The only good thing about this repair is that if you get an aftermarket timing set with upper tensioner assemblies, the only way to replace the entire upper tensioner assembly is to remove the rear timing cover so you can access the bolts; for those that just have the typical upper chain "whine," only the plastic faces of the tensioners that rides against the chains are replaced.
If you're oil pressure is low, it would be a good reason you are getting internal engine rattles as the variable valve timing is oil-controlled and the three chain tensioners are all oil-fed.
oh man, what have I gotten into!
So give me an honest opinion here...if you can, I've had one place quote me 1800.00 for replacing the chains and stuff with a kit. He mentioned the oil galley fix would be included in that. if he didn't do the oil fix it would be 1500.00...
Is it worth it to bite the bullet on this? I realize that there could also be other problems down the road...I paid 6500 for this beast is it worth it to keep or should I dump it now?
Thanks again for the help...
So give me an honest opinion here...if you can, I've had one place quote me 1800.00 for replacing the chains and stuff with a kit. He mentioned the oil galley fix would be included in that. if he didn't do the oil fix it would be 1500.00...
Is it worth it to bite the bullet on this? I realize that there could also be other problems down the road...I paid 6500 for this beast is it worth it to keep or should I dump it now?
Thanks again for the help...
Way to early to push the panic button yet 
It sounds like you arent sure if its been properly diagnosed yet.
Could still be fairly minor.
Also you have a nice powerful well handling truck with new transmission.
Thats represents some value.
If I was in your shoes wouldnt hesitate to fix what needs fixing (and right now I dont think we are even 100% anything does)
It sounds like you arent sure if its been properly diagnosed yet.
Could still be fairly minor.
Also you have a nice powerful well handling truck with new transmission.
Thats represents some value.
If I was in your shoes wouldnt hesitate to fix what needs fixing (and right now I dont think we are even 100% anything does)
Thanks for the suggestions! I plan to take it into a shop that my favorite transmission guy suggested...
They seem to know their stuff and are the ones that suggested the oil gasket might want to be looked at while they are in there.
I'll have them give it a good look and report back.
I was getting somewhat panicked after seeing all the bad press on this year/model but have settled down a bit...if I throw 1800.00 at it at least I'll have peace of mind knowing the 2 major failures are taken care of.
My old Isuzu Trooper blew a hole in the engine and that's why I bought this truck...probably why I'm a bit gun shy...
Thanks again
They seem to know their stuff and are the ones that suggested the oil gasket might want to be looked at while they are in there.
I'll have them give it a good look and report back.
I was getting somewhat panicked after seeing all the bad press on this year/model but have settled down a bit...if I throw 1800.00 at it at least I'll have peace of mind knowing the 2 major failures are taken care of.
My old Isuzu Trooper blew a hole in the engine and that's why I bought this truck...probably why I'm a bit gun shy...
Thanks again
So, the shop I took the truck to has verified that the primary chain has stretched and the tensioner to it is fully extended.
I had him test the oil pressure and he said it's running about 22 psi which is about 5 psi below ideal.
He's done about 15 of these engines and he said that when the oil gasket fails it always has thrown a oil warning light so I'm probably ok...he won't know until he gets farther in...
He's planning to replace the secondary guides, primary chain and the primary tensioner and guide...told me the secondary chains rarely need replacing
1400.bux...sigh
The good news is that he said he's never had one come back after doing this method...
I'm hoping that I can get at least a couple years out of it.
I had him test the oil pressure and he said it's running about 22 psi which is about 5 psi below ideal.
He's done about 15 of these engines and he said that when the oil gasket fails it always has thrown a oil warning light so I'm probably ok...he won't know until he gets farther in...
He's planning to replace the secondary guides, primary chain and the primary tensioner and guide...told me the secondary chains rarely need replacing
1400.bux...sigh
The good news is that he said he's never had one come back after doing this method...
I'm hoping that I can get at least a couple years out of it.
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