Silverarrow you rock and are a good example to all of us.
Let us know when you are mission complete and I will stick the thread ( as it still see posts it's self bumping right now anyhow)

Here is the engine without the cover on and coil packs. Not too shabby of a job to get to the spark plugs, however, I did have to pull my whole arsenal of extensions, socket swivel, and cheater bar to get the job done. The last two rears on both sides were the most time consuming ones. I can't imagine how this job would be like when my new tires and lift is installed. I'd have to use a step ladder or just take off the hood and sit on top of the engine bay. Would just have to do it in Spring or Fall weather next time because the 102 degree heat was KILLING me. Anyhow, you're here for pictures, not the life story.








Plugs pulled out in its coordinating cylinder layout from front to rear of engine.

Last of the nuts and bolts that I need for my rear suspension overhaul coming in a week or two.

No new update, other than new parts still arriving. Latest parts to arrive were front lower control arms, brake lines, and used stock oem knuckles for the rear from Texas. My front OME's are on order, but have yet to seen it shipped yet. Only pictures I have is of my brake lines:

Well, It's been a while since my last update. Pandemic working from home actually has me busier and working more hours than if I were to work in the office and had a 3rd baby. Anyway, found time here and there to work on the Pathy and finally completed as of this past weekend. I thought I had taken more pictures, unfortunately I did not.

Replaced rear driverside window switch:



Prepping rear suspension with their associated genuine Nissan oem nuts and bolts:




Disassembly of rear suspension:












After chipping loose paint & rust then went over the rust spots with a wire wheel. Then degreased. Sprayed two layers of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator:






Also, purchased a set of poly bushings for rear sway bar off Ebay. Stupid how these bushings don't come precut so I had to cut a slit on the flat end with my dremel. Bolt broke in the rear subframe taking off the rear sway bar so for now I'm running without a rear sway bar. May end up like that permanently unless I decide to buy a brand new rear subframe in a year or two or find a used one. Part number from the V8 differs from the V6 so the replacement rear subframe definitely has to come out from a v8 if buying used.



With the OME rear spring and shock installed on rear end:

Then finally had a chance to start working on the front suspension after New Years.




Repeated the chipping off loose paint and rust process, which luckily wasn't as bad as the rear, I then degreased and sprayed/painted the front area down with AGS Rust Solutions Rust Paint. Ran out of Eastwood so I figured I'd try the newest thing on the market from AGS. I have a few AGS grease products so I decided to try this from them as well.




I purchased a pair of used front knuckles from a local guy parting out a 2wd Pathy since part number is shared amongst all years and v6/v8 models. The only difference I've seen is that the earlier models like the ones I picked up is stamped as 'version 1' and the later knuckles like out of my 2011 has 'version 2' stamped on. Otherwise, visually, they look the same side by side. Maybe the difference lies in the metal? I ended up degreasing, scrubbing, and painting the replacement knuckles with the Rust Paint just to make it look pretty.




Picked up brand new Timken wheel bearings to install in the knuckles:



Trimmed off a bit of the coil buckets to prevent the ball joint from hitting it which is known as 'Coil Bucket Contact' or CBC for short. Also saw a spot that I didn't get with the Rust Paint so I covered it after taking the pictures.




Comparing old Rancho coilover I picked up used from the same guy I picked up my knuckles from with my new King Shocks coilover:



Almost done, had to figure out where to mount the remote reservoirs and made sure I set my UCAs to have a bit more caster than factory to push my 33" tires forward in the wheel well. :



I thought this may have been a good spot to install the remote reservoir to clear my wheel from damaging it at full lock.



I also had to replace the passenger side outer tie rod so I figured I'd do both sides. Been having good luck with AC Delco parts lately, even better than Mevotech from my observation and experience. Also, didn't realize the AC Delco outer tie rod also came with a zerk fitting for greasing. The balls did feel a bit tight and the grease looked a bit dry so I pumped new grease into the outer tie rod balls after installation:





After digging into the King Shocks box some more, I found a set of remote reservoir mounting brackets with mounting hardware and instructions! YAY! Although, I'm iffy on the idea of mounting the remote reservoirs at the front where it'll take some impact. It does sit a few mm above the frame, I'm still not too sure about the location. Looks good though. The mounting brackets utilize the existing threaded holes for the factory tow hook on the frame.

And finally the finished product:






My alignment sheet shows my rear suspension needs those eccentric bushings to fix the camber issue so I ordered it last night from 4x4 Parts and should have the bushings installed and car realigned here in a few weeks. After reading numerous threads regarding the "Brutal" alignment method, the only thing I picked up from it was that caster above 5 degrees experienced very sensitive steering wheel input, steering wheel return after making turns were very quick, and saw a few members that the steering wheel picked up more feedback from the road when going over imperfections. Then I saw a few guys from ClubFrontier & TheNewX recommended to stay around 4.5 degrees for caster so I aimed my UCA to set me to be right around the 4-4.5 degree range. I got lucky and landed right where I wanted.



My tires are rubbing on my fender liners a little so I took them off for now to mod. I may cut my fenders on the corners and then do the melt mod in preparation of 35" tires in a few years. Crazy winds and rain is coming this weekend so I won't be working on the fenders & fender liner until the rain and wind goes away. I also took the little air dam out that hangs down in front of the front tires and removed the factory mud flaps for ground clearance.

"Stickied" because you are setting such a good example

Any more updates?

I actually haven't had a chance to update this thread. I was off the last six weeks from work, but instead of fixing/upgrading cars I was busy going out with the family Had to enjoy the last bit of warmth before the cold starts rolling in.

Some pics and updates should be up later tonight or tomorrow.

Congrats on the purchase. I am curious to see how you plan to fix the frame rust. hellodear.in

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It's all surface rust so I just hit it with some wire brushes and wire wheels then used the AGS Rust Paint over it. I picked up a 2008 that had more modifications and since I'm too lazy to swap the parts over to the 2011, I'm gonna end up cleaning up this 2011 some and post it for sale once my 2008 is ready to daily drive and hit the trails. It'll probably be in a few months or early 2023.

silverarrow27 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 07, 2022 5:11 pm

It's all surface rust so I just hit it with some wire brushes and wire wheels then used the AGS Rust Paint over it. I picked up a 2008 that had more modifications and since I'm too lazy to swap the parts over to the 2011, I'm gonna end up cleaning up this 2011 some and post it for sale once my 2008 is ready to daily drive and hit the trails. It'll probably be in a few months or early 2023.

Please be sure to post your FS to our little community here first before you post it to the world.

Oh, for sure!