Folks

Dying for help here!!! 2012 PF LE V6. I have the Ironman 4x4 Performance Lift, 265/70R18 Falkens, and the Caster/Camber bolt kit. Seems everything was done fine but I am getting a TON of feedback through the steering wheel. Sawing back and forth like its out of balance, especially over 70 MPH. I have the front end looked over and cleared.

1. Wheel bearings - seem fine, no wobble
2. bushing - seem fine, no wiggle
3. drive shaft - feels smooth, not overly tight, and no play.
4. CV - no leaking or movement.
5. Alignment - fits within the parameters. I am curious if using stock measurements is causing the issue and I need to go to a shop that specializes in lifted trucks
6. Tires - look to be cupping and feathering.
7. Wheels - No visible damage
8. Suspension - All looks clean, no leaking.

Any help is really really appreciated!

I had same symptoms albeit no lift.

suspension had been gone over by both nissan and an independent.
Even had most of my bushings replaced.
Both said "no leaks, shocks r fine"

After a while I gave up and bought some slightly used shocks from a forum guy.
Installation turned the shake off like a switch.

Not saying yours is the same, but seems quite similar.

Coincidentally, I just got my rears done and took it for a drive last night(OME shocks & Med springs). I experienced the same thing, but my speeds were no higher than 40-50 mph and I felt like I was in a boat during a hurricane and I had no control of the steering. For my issue though, I see my issue is that when I put my rear suspension together, I set it to factory specs per FSM and my rear wheels are sitting with major negative camber and toe out. My front suspension is stock at the moment, still waiting for my King Shocks coilovers, not arriving until November.

I'll be going out there in a bit here to adjust my camber and toe settings to see if that gets rid of the issue. I'm going based off visual. Although your alignment specs were within factor spec, does your wheels visually look straight?

Ok, adjusting my camber and toe helped, but I went overboard on camber. Now I have too much positive camber lol When I brake, I'm still getting the swaying which I suspect has to do with my dead struts in front because it happened when I started braking earlier.

Strange thing today, after installing new struts in front. I took the Pathy for another drive this evening and my rear wheels is now back to a little negative camber with positive toe. I might need to double check my nuts and bolts tomorrow in the rear to make sure they're torqued correctly or I need a better more accurate torque wrench instead of the cheapy Harbor Freight Pittsburgh that I bought for like $20. Might have to upgrade up to their Icon torque wrench. My VDC light was kicking on also meaning my alignment is horribly out of spec and my swaying is still prevalent from the rear too.

I'm almost at the point of loosening all my control arms, shocks, and torque them again. Hopefully this isn't the result of a control arm dead on arrival(DOA). All my rear suspension parts are new Mevotech arms from RockAuto. New Medium OME springs and OME nitro shocks. I hope you're having better luck than I.

Latest update for my resolution. I inspected my rear suspension carefully this morning and saw that my right rear shock bushings were binding a bit so I took the shock out and seated it again. Adjusted my camber a bit and left my toe as how I previously had it and all the problems went away. I still see that I have a bit of positive camber still, but all I care is the swaying/boat ride is gone.

Interesting! I am in the boat now, just after replacing all 4 struts and shocks for OME lift kit (+30mm).
Is there any method to manually chack alignment, like with some rulers and such? Did you find out, if alignemnt for lifter vahicle is the same as for stock?

There's a few methods, chalk method, string method, magnetic leveler, going based off your eyes method , and taking it to a shop. Unless your vehicle is strictly a race car, factory alignment will work fine for a daily driver/street vehicle and mine needs the rear eccentric bushings to fix the rear camber. You can find my alignment sheet on my "build" thread:

copart-buy-2011-v8-4x4-t20679-30.html

You'll probably need the eccentric bushings also. I don't know how a few guys with lifts got away without these bushings, but all my suspension components are new and there is no way I can see to get the suspension aligned within factory specs. I even tried myself in the driveway before taking it in to a shop. It's not rocket science trying to adjust camber and toe in your driveway. Anyhow, I purchased the bushings from 4x4 Parts: https://www.4x4parts.com/i-22756999-rea ... hings.html

I'll have the bushings installed by mid-February since I need to go help my nephew install his new coilovers and shocks for his Tundra next weekend in the Phoenix area. It's suppose to rain & snow here this weekend so I can't work on mine since I work on my vehicles on the driveway.