I'm going to get this done when I am back in the US later in the year.
Am still well below 200k though, 10 yrs old with 148k

So glad I found this post. My son was working on the spark plug replacement and broke the plastic heater hose part as he was trying to get the wire harness that is right there un-clipped. I thought he leaned on it and broke it by being careless. I'm happier to know this is a common issue, so I guess I won't yell at him.

so glad I found this!
I was towing the boat out to the lake and on the way home noticed the temp climbing above 100 celsius.
With no coolant light and not wanting to pull over I thought ok maybe the thermostat so I just nursed it home.
Long story short I drove maybe half an hour with that pipe sheared off and I guess next to no coolant left. Oil still is clear (Just had an oil change) and I hope I didn't damage anything else.
Now I have to hope I can find this part locally (Vancouver, Canada)

So now I know the problem.
Why didn't my low coolant light come on?
We have one right? Where is the sensor located?

thx for the great write up will study it closely.

Your "low coolant" light essentially is your temp gauge or CEL

silverarrow27 wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 02, 2020 12:05 am

Your "low coolant" light essentially is your temp gauge or CEL

heh well driving for half an hour at over 110 degrees C and next to no coolant and the oil still looks fresh and after replacing the broken heater pipe all seems normal again.
just topping off the reservoir as needed while the rest of the air burps out.
aside from the high temp readings nothing felt wrong. it was strange. oh well live and learn.


Thanks again for the write up.

Hi,

Anyone used this all metal replacement part? seems better then the original.

https://www.wholesalepartsexpress.com/p ... -dual-air/

Nope...but now I'm certainly curious about it. I'm about to drive cross country to move to CA, so I looked at mine through the wheel well a few hours ago while I was doing something else. Mine looks good now (better than all the pictures I've seen online when replaced, which is odd since most things on my truck are usually the opposite when I look at them the first time), but I will likely replace this when I get to my new place and have a garage to do it.

You usually don't see the part that breaks because it breaks inside the hose. The plastic just gets really britten and breaks. The all-metal update looks like a good solution!

ok, going to order the all metal alternative. Will write a review once it is in. Which will take a while, needs to ship to europe .

Arrived by mail today. Will probably do the replacement next weekend.

some time later. Installed the all metal heater pipes and drove the car down to italy and back, 2500km and no issues. That was the positive part.

Now the bad part. It doesn't fit well, the 2 vertical pipes are too short and the angle with the horizontal pipe is off. The metal pipes comes with 2 new rubber hoses which have the same length as the orginal, useless. I spend most of a full day draining, removing, installing, cursing, finding a spare waterhose, filling and burping.


On the left the original, on the right the one I made from a spare tube.


Once installed



This is the horizontal pipe. The kit comes with 2 new clamps. I couldn't get the driverside one in without putting too much strain on the pipe, so I made a makeshift solution with the right clamp. Didn't feel like taking the whole stuff out and bend the pipe a little.


Tip: get one of these waterhose clamp tools to handle the original clamps.

Good info to know; thanks for the update!

My 2005 SE had a coolant leak. It was leaking at the heater hose that was to the inlet on that heater hose assembly. I ordered a new hose from Rockauto and started the process of replacing the hose. The hose I got was a lot longer than the original hose, rather than go through the process of returning the hose.. i decided to "modify" the hose I had. After trimming on both ends, I got it in place, started the car and damn if it wasn't still leaking at the bottom. I stop the engine, start taking the hose back out and I snap off the plastic nipple on the heater hose assembly. Basically, the same issue as the original post in this thread. Thanks to the information in this thread, I have the assembly minus the pump coming from Nissan Partsdeal. I assume that I will have to cut the old hoses off of the fittings on the heater input and output, and the ones at the bottom. Curious if any of you guys reused the clamps or did you replace them?

thanks for the help even though I wish I didn't need it. @#$!^
BD

The part from Nissan comes with new clamps...or, at least the part with the heater pump does.

Yes this heater pipe is a poor design by Nissan . When this happened to me It litteraly exploded in front of me and got hot coolant on my face and upper body , talk bout a hell of a surprise! I just happened to be looking and feeling because i thought i had seen traces of coolant and BOOM!! WOSH!!!. Word of advice, DO NOT BE TOUCHING OR MOVING THIS PIPE when hot.