Hi All,

I have been a bit busy so slow to post. But I thought I would give a quick update on my R51 build as I just put my new wheels and tires on and boy am I happy with it thus far. There are still a few things to iron out though, including modifying the mud flaps, the front wind diverter, and the liners to get them reinstalled.

Also, in-case someone wants to recreate this build here are the details.

2007 Nissan Pathfinder with a 2-2.5" suspension lift front and rear (Koni shocks with all dogs springs and camber kit, stock upper control arms and no extra spacers).
https://www.alldogsoffroad.com/alldogs- ... pathfinder

KMC wheels, 18x9 with a positive offset of 18mm.
https://www.kmcwheels.com/kmc-impact
The specifications are as follows: KM54289064718 KM542 IMPACT SATIN BLACK 18X9 6X114.3 5.71 18mm 66.06 31.49 lbs 2500 1.34 T164H120-6-H30-S1

I have installed Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 tires Size: LT285/65R18 Load/Speed Rating #: 125/S

Here are some pictures below (these have the old tires with are destroyed because my alignment was off and my prior suspension was bad).
I removed the wheel well liners in the front to make some room for the tires in advance of the install. You can see a pile of leaves that were piled up behind the mud guard. If i didn't live in a drought ridden desert this would have rusted out by now. I strongly suggest regular cleaning of this part, especially if you live in a wet area or one with salt. I also found a rust blister. Not sure what it is from, but i suspect it got hit there with something. I will need to address this. Here are a couple pictures with the new tires. Here is a comparison of the old tires with the new tires (and my helpers). Some modification was required in the front. I folded up the rear flap that collected the leaves (considering the paint damage it caused I kinda regret folding - it may have been better to cut). I will have to clean and paint a portion on the top and bottom of the section because of paint flaking. If i had cut it would have just been a small edge that needed paint.

Here is a before, for the front. Here is an after. Here is a before for the back Here is an after Here a couple picks of the clearance in the rear with all the liners and mudflaps unmodified.

That wheel and lift combo look great. How is the ride quality now?

Thupertrooper wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 29, 2022 6:43 am

That wheel and lift combo look great. How is the ride quality now?

Thanks, Previously it had the original springs and KYB shocks (replaced at 90k) for context here.

The ride was at best squishy. The rear would bottom out on large speed bumps generally would lean a lot in turns.

Now, the ride is firm without being stiff. I would describe it as a more modern feel where things are well sprung and don't lean a lot but it soaks up the bumps pretty good. Before I put the new wheels and tires on it was a little awkward feeling from a stability standpoint. The bigger tires feel really well planted. and it rides great. However, the previous tires (there were passenger tires) would absorb bumps a little better then the new tires which are LTs. But, I like it a lot. I would definitely go with the koni's again.

Edited later to add the alignment numbers since it is often a common question as to wither alignment is possible. I beleive the bushings are all original (except the from swaybar to frame bushings.

Very impressive!!

BTW, there are some squeaks (i think from the suspension), but I still love this tire wheel and suspension setup.

MPGs went from 15.5 to 13.8/13.9. However, the previous tires traveled about 10% less distance then the current ones. So based on my calculations its a wash to maybe .1 or .2 percent less MPGs. YMMV.

AS_The_Crow_Flys wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 08, 2022 11:57 pm

BTW, there are some squeaks (i think from the suspension), but I still love this tire wheel and suspension setup.

MPGs went from 15.5 to 13.8/13.9. However, the previous tires traveled about 10% less distance then the current ones. So based on my calculations its a wash to maybe .1 or .2 percent less MPGs. YMMV.

Squeaks are usually a tired bushing somewhere

palmerwmd wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 09, 2022 6:50 am

AS_The_Crow_Flys wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 08, 2022 11:57 pm

BTW, there are some squeaks (i think from the suspension), but I still love this tire wheel and suspension setup.

MPGs went from 15.5 to 13.8/13.9. However, the previous tires traveled about 10% less distance then the current ones. So based on my calculations its a wash to maybe .1 or .2 percent less MPGs. YMMV.

Squeaks are usually a tired bushing somewhere

Gonna go poke under there at some point heat wave finished but then got a work wave to deal with. I will report back if I find the culprit

Well of course batteries don't last for $(#& these days. Had a 42 month warrantied interstate battery from Costco. Replaced it with a 36month battery (some place and brand), because my almost 4 year old, but out of warranty battery had 13% life left according to the tester.

While I was at it I pulled the plastic tray out from under the battery and yuck... It was full of white powder and the paint had been eaten away pretty good by acid. I wire wheeled it and painted it with rust converter but gross lame and stupid. If they have AGM batteries next time I will get one of them (or try to plan ahead). I also cleaned up the terminals to get a better connection.

Based on this and the location of the rust in the last picture of the first post, I believe that the rust is caused by battery juices. I should probably look for some sort of drain options for now to try and avoid further damage.

AS_The_Crow_Flys wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 03, 2022 10:00 am

Based on this and the location of the rust in the last picture of the first post, I believe that the rust is caused by battery juices. I should probably look for some sort of drain options for now to try and avoid further damage.

Very common on R51's, as well as Frontiers and Xterras with the same setup. What causes it is gas from the battery, the H2SO4 fumes are heavier than air and flow underneath the battery before going overboard. What I use for my customers is first rust converter, then marine epoxy. The latter is impervious to pretty much everything and will limit future corrosion to the still-exposed ground screws. Protect those with zinc battery terminal paint.

Believe it or not, Nissan outdid the R51 crust on the new R53. Check out this ridiculous disaster-waiting-to-happen:
topic21361.html

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 03, 2022 1:00 pm

AS_The_Crow_Flys wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 03, 2022 10:00 am

Based on this and the location of the rust in the last picture of the first post, I believe that the rust is caused by battery juices. I should probably look for some sort of drain options for now to try and avoid further damage.

Very common on R51's, as well as Frontiers and Xterras with the same setup. What causes it is gas from the battery, the H2SO4 fumes are heavier than air and flow underneath the battery before going overboard. What I use for my customers is first rust converter, then marine epoxy. The latter is impervious to pretty much everything and will limit future corrosion to the still-exposed ground screws. Protect those with zinc battery terminal paint.

Believe it or not, Nissan outdid the R51 crust on the new R53. Check out this ridiculous disaster-waiting-to-happen:
topic21361.html

Thanks for the tip, I will look into getting some marine epoxy for it. Or go with the lazy option and use only sealed batteries after this one.

As for the R53, I can't say I am surprised, after the trash Jacto transmission in the r52 and all the other cost cutting measures. Wife and I test drove an R53 and did not like. It rattled like hell!

Well you know how people say its the small things that matter. Well its not. Its the big things ... big tires that is.

So I finally = took the factory spare out (and i do mean factor as the steel wheel had a tire on it manufactured in 2006 - Oy!) and put the oversized spare in there. It fit, but honestly there is very very little room left. Maybe another 1/2 taller tire would fit but no more. Here are some pics.

AS_The_Crow_Flys wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 08, 2022 11:57 pm

BTW, there are some squeaks (i think from the suspension), but I still love this tire wheel and suspension setup.

MPGs went from 15.5 to 13.8/13.9. However, the previous tires traveled about 10% less distance then the current ones. So based on my calculations its a wash to maybe .1 or .2 percent less MPGs. YMMV.

Replying to myself here to give everyone an update incase they do something similar in the future.
So after driving a bit it looks like MPGs are down around 1 to .5 mpgs per gallon. It was and still is a gas guzzler. No surprise here.

The upgrades continue... hopefully.

After all the complaints about getting in and out of the pathfinder the wife cleared the sliders.

Ordered the full coverage kicker sliders.
https://www.rocky-road.com/pathfinder-rock-sliders.html

We will see if this works out.

AS_The_Crow_Flys wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 08, 2022 6:07 pm

The upgrades continue... hopefully.

After all the complaints about getting in and out of the pathfinder the wife cleared the sliders.

Ordered the full coverage kicker sliders.
https://www.rocky-road.com/pathfinder-rock-sliders.html

We will see if this works out.

Real curious how these sliders will work out for you.
Am loving your choice of wheels.
Maybe when my tires are ready for replacement I will buy that set of wheels.

Hi All,

Still waiting on news about my sliders. Who knows when or if that will happen. But I haven't been charged yet.

On a different note. I purchased recovery points for the front of the pathfinder (using a hitch mounted one for the back). In particular, I rolled the dice here and tried the following.
https://ironman4x4america.com/rated-rec ... xus-lx470/

I had found some information on the australian site that indicated that they may fit ... Part number was different but not the landcruiser overlap.
https://www.4x4modsaustralia.com.au/Roa ... 80/100/105

They are ironman recovery points part number IRP005. They came with four m12 bolts washers and springs and four m14 bolts washers and springs. They also included weird bars with welded on nuts but they turned out to not be necessary. In fact, i should have checked a while ago because it turns out to be a straight bolt on job with a little plastic trimming in my case. The only thing that is unclear is what to torque them to because the instructions didn't include a torque spec. I will ask ironman but for now i based it off the numbers i found some specifications next to the towing section for now (80ft-lb as these are 10.9 m12 fine thread bolts). I will report back if I find a more definitive answer.

Here are a few pictures:
Tow hitch mount location Passenger/Driver View from below Driver View from the front, Passenger/driver (once the airdamn on the bottom goes on you basically can't see them unless you look from below so you would need some D-rings or something on their if you want people to know you got recovery hooks or leave the airdamn off). If there are any issues, its that you can see the recovery point buts up to the frame extensions where they connect to the front cross member. I may can back in with an angle grinder and cut out about a 1/4 inch tab, but it was night when i did this so if would be a bit too noisy in the residential neighborhood i live in. Concern here is that its possible the recover point could slide forward a little on a big tug and bend th the metal. Service manual Tow information and following page with general torque table.