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Front suspension clunk - front passenger side

 
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brickbox



Joined: 24 Oct 2019
Posts: 36
Location: Rust Belt

PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 10:10 am    Post subject: Front suspension clunk - front passenger side Reply with quote

I’ve been noticing a clunking sound coming from the front passenger side when I drive over bumps. Crawled underneath and found that the outer tie rod (which is a moog problem solver replaced by the PO at an unknown mileage) is wet - see picture.

In addition, there’s an additional mount on the top near the coil spring that is wet as well. However, this mount is wet on the drivers side as well.

1. Can the tie rod be clinking? I tried to wiggle it around with the car jacked up I couldn’t do it. Interestingly, I can rotate it but it takes more effort compared to the inner tie rod on the driver’s side.
2. What is the bushing/mount on top of the suspension? Can it be that this is the one that is clunking? If so, does it mean that the one on the driver’s side is also on its way out?




Said top mounts

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ShipFixer



Joined: 24 May 2009
Posts: 517
Location: Arlington, VA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the front wheel jacked up, grab it at 3 and 9 o'clock and try to wiggle. If it clicks or moves its probably tie rods. Grab at 6 and 12, if there's clicking there it's a ball joint (the thing at the top or bottom that you circled and asked about).

Both cases could also be a wheel hub bearing.

There's one usual suspect if there's no play in the ball joints or tie rods though: the front body mounts or frame isolators wear down and make all sorts of noises. Mine sounds an awful lot like a failed ball joint going slow over speed bumps right now. Bet that's it if you don't feel anythijg driving or see any play...
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2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4: XTP Intake Manifold Spacer, PRG motor mounts, Moog springs, Bilstein shocks, Air Lift 1000, PRG Delrin steering rack bushings, CSF all aluminum radiator, SecondSkin sound deadening and insulation.
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smj999smj
Site Admin


Joined: 22 Jan 2012
Posts: 5540
Location: Prospect, VA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as the "wet," it's just grease seepage. That's normal.
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2006 Pathfinder LE VQ40DE AWD, aftermarket radiator, Airlift 1000's, Bilstein HD rear shocks, Doug Thorley shortie headers and mid-pipes, Magnaflow 12580 muffler, aFe Momentum GT CAI w/ dry filter, XTP plenum spacer, Superchips Flashpaq tuner
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brickbox



Joined: 24 Oct 2019
Posts: 36
Location: Rust Belt

PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

smj999smj wrote:
As far as the "wet," it's just grease seepage. That's normal.


Good to know, that is re-assuring. I was freaking out if I had to change a bunch of components, but this gives me more peace of mind.
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brickbox



Joined: 24 Oct 2019
Posts: 36
Location: Rust Belt

PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ShipFixer wrote:
With the front wheel jacked up, grab it at 3 and 9 o'clock and try to wiggle. If it clicks or moves its probably tie rods. Grab at 6 and 12, if there's clicking there it's a ball joint (the thing at the top or bottom that you circled and asked about).

Both cases could also be a wheel hub bearing.

There's one usual suspect if there's no play in the ball joints or tie rods though: the front body mounts or frame isolators wear down and make all sorts of noises. Mine sounds an awful lot like a failed ball joint going slow over speed bumps right now. Bet that's it if you don't feel anythijg driving or see any play...


I had time yesterday to go out and jack it up without snow and rain. Everything seems nice and tight.

Interestingly, it’s usually the first bump after I start driving that causes the clunk - almost like metal to metal contact.
I also took the car on a gravel road with steep-ish banks. Turns out just driving on the gravel - no sounds. Get it up on the banks where the body “leans” and then I can replicate it each time.

Makes me think this is indeed the body mount(s) like you said.
Is this something that I can fix in the spring or does it need immediate attention?
Also, how hard of a job is this?
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ShipFixer



Joined: 24 May 2009
Posts: 517
Location: Arlington, VA

PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not an emergency, and not hard. Just makes a clunk noise that's annoying. And yes it's often temperature dependent.

Well, unless yours are seized with rust like mine, then it could be hard. I gotta go figure that out Wink
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2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4: XTP Intake Manifold Spacer, PRG motor mounts, Moog springs, Bilstein shocks, Air Lift 1000, PRG Delrin steering rack bushings, CSF all aluminum radiator, SecondSkin sound deadening and insulation.
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brickbox



Joined: 24 Oct 2019
Posts: 36
Location: Rust Belt

PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That’s good to know.
Ha! I’ve been following that thread of yours and I have no doubt I’m going to have similar struggles as you. I’m hoping a few days of PB Blaster soaking will help
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weaver



Joined: 25 Jan 2019
Posts: 41
Location: Ohio hole-pit:)

PostPosted: Sat Feb 01, 2020 12:15 pm    Post subject: Moog tie rods Reply with quote

Hello. I had my tie rods done in December (Moog problem solver) and mine really seeped also. These parts have what's called "gusher bearings", and a special grease boot that allows you to flush old grease out when you service them.(comes out of the top of the boot) My problem was that I over filled them a little bit, so the grease wouldn't stop seeping out of the boot. Was driving me nuts (not hard to do Very Happy ) ! I took the zerk fittings off (7mm wrench) and gently pressed on the boot to remove excess grease(it oozes out down from the zerk mount hole),wiped it all clean and CAREFULLY
re- installed zerks. Finally took care of annoying mess. !!The zerks are easy to cross thread and/or strip!!
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