oil change

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disallow
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oil change

Postby disallow » Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:18 pm

OK so I'm a handy guy. Always done my own oil changes, even done engine and tranny swaps on my hondas. Pretty much anything I think about doing, I research and do it.

Today went to change the oil on the Pathy. And although I only spent about 10 minutes underneath it, and the mosquitos were driving me nuts, I tell ya... I think I'll be takin her in for the oil changes.

The Oil pan drain bolt was so bloody tight I couldn't loosen it. And there is a Radiator skid plate in the way of getting at the (by the way extremely tiny) oil filter. I saw there was an access by removing 2 10mm bolts, but I didn't have the patience to bother.

So perhaps another evening. Anyone else have anything to add to this?

And why is the oil filter so tiny on the 4.0 L engine?

t


Gray
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Re: oil change

Postby Gray » Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:31 pm

disallow wrote:And why is the oil filter so tiny on the 4.0 L engine?
The filter does seem small for a 4.0L but it's also the same size as is used on the 5.6L V8 engine. Purolator Pure1, Mobil1 and Amsoil EA are microfiber replacement filters which do finer micron cut of particles flowing through but I run a 0W30 oil to reduce chance of oil bypassing the Pure1 filter at startup. Plugging the truck in for a couple of hours before startup would help as well.

.

LittleStevie
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Postby LittleStevie » Sun Sep 07, 2008 6:25 am

Like any new car, the first time doing the oil change is tough, but after you learn the techniques it becomes easy. Put some muscle into the drain plug - you might have to put it up on jack stands to get a longer wrench underneath. Make sure you're turning the plug counterclockwise to remove. It may sound stupid, but we've all had the socket wrench backwards and thought we were loosening but really tightening. After the first time, if you use the proper crush washer and don't overtorque, it really isn't a problem.

You have to remove the small access plate in the skid plate, like you said, to get to the filter. Use a band-type oil filter wrench (size up to a new filter) and you have to reach up and around the skid plate on the passenger side, slip the wrench over the filter, and work the filter off in small rotations due to limited clearance for the wrench.

Once you get the filter off, there's a little oil ramp that funnels the oil to the opening in the skid plate. Unfortunately the design is slightly lacking and it always manages to send a little oil on the top of the skid plate that needs cleanup.

Like I said, it's a pain the first time, but once you get a system down it's quick. It's a worthwhile investment to spend an hour on it the first time to learn - Put it this way, it would take longer than that to have it done at a dealer, including time to get there and back.

amr40509
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Postby amr40509 » Sun Sep 07, 2008 10:31 am

I've found it's easier to just take the skid plate off to get to the filter then to use the little door.

I just pop a 10mm head on my drill and buzz the bolts out in a few seconds.

I just open the drain plug and have it start draining, then w/in 5 min I have the skid plate off and am ready to plug it pan again and pull off the filter.

Whole process -- maybe 15 - 20 min.

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Postby disallow » Sun Sep 07, 2008 3:34 pm

I'm assuming nobody here is in a rust belt? My truck only has 95k kms on it, and its an 05. That means 3 or 4 winters tops. And those bolts look rusty!

hello penetrating oil!

t

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Re: oil change

Postby disallow » Sun Sep 07, 2008 3:36 pm

Greybrick wrote:
disallow wrote:And why is the oil filter so tiny on the 4.0 L engine?
The filter does seem small for a 4.0L but it's also the same size as is used on the 5.6L V8 engine. Purolator Pure1, Mobil1 and Amsoil EA are microfiber replacement filters which do finer micron cut of particles flowing through but I run a 0W30 oil to reduce chance of oil bypassing the Pure1 filter at startup. Plugging the truck in for a couple of hours before startup would help as well.

.
So a FRAM is outta the question then? I used to be a big OE Oil filter guy, but got too lazy to drive to the dealer every time i needed an oil change. Been using the FRAM since about 100k kms on the civic, it now has almost 300.

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Postby Gray » Sun Sep 07, 2008 3:36 pm

disallow wrote:I'm assuming nobody here is in a rust belt? My truck only has 95k kms on it, and its an 05. That means 3 or 4 winters tops. And those bolts look rusty!

hello penetrating oil!

t
Stainless steel or Titanium replacement bolts is your friend if you're looking for an improvement mod. :lol:

.

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Postby SHAWNATGERBROCK » Mon Sep 08, 2008 7:41 am

I made a new door for mine , basically enlarged the door that was there and then made a new little door out of aluminum, held in with the existing bolts .... made getting to the filter easy .... actually I thought the Path was one of the better oil changes I have done , esp. one that can easily be done in a driveway !!

And yea, everyone is going to the smaller filters ....

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Postby Npath » Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:19 am

disallow wrote:I'm assuming nobody here is in a rust belt? My truck only has 95k kms on it, and its an 05. That means 3 or 4 winters tops. And those bolts look rusty!

hello penetrating oil!

t
Every year, brush on some anti seize. You can find those at almost all places that sell automotive parts.

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MonkeyMike
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Postby MonkeyMike » Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:55 am

forget about the tiny filter or the awkward hand angle you have to use to loosen it... my problem is that when i get the filter part way off, the oil tends to run along the underside of the oil cooler and get all over the parts behind the fancy oil gutter. it doesn't drip nicely onto the fancy oil gutter and into the pan like the nissan engineers thought it would. argh! :evil:

~mike

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Postby disallow » Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:10 am

had the old pathy filter in my garage and it happened to be sitting beside a new Honda Civic filter (2008 model) I have. The filters are identical.

How could a filter for a 1.8l 4 cyl have enough filter element to support flow from a 4L v6 with this much power?

Think I will be looking for external filtration systems for the pathy... the stock oil filter looks inadequate.

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Postby blink32 » Wed Sep 24, 2008 7:33 am

disallow wrote:The filters are identical.
Nissan has used the same filter for many many vehicles for quite a while. The filter is the same on my 00 Sentra, 06 Murano and 06 Pathy. I also know it's the same filter recommended for the 240 and the Z.

Post up what you find out about bypass oil filtration in another thread if you get any details. The next oil change I'll be measuring all the appropriate components to match up a bypass setup from some company. I know there are several Manu's out there Amsoil, Puradyn, FS2500, etc to choose from. All differ really only in filter media. Just need to figure out thread pitch and diameter and get the appropriate mounting plate if they have one.


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