Removing rear sub (factory Bose system)

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Shinyboy
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Removing rear sub (factory Bose system)

Postby Shinyboy » Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:30 am

Has anyone done this? I'm pretty much positive the speaker is blown and would like to fix it. Don't want to do any more dis-assembly then is actually required. Does anyone know if it is a sealed unit or if the speaker can simply be replaced?

Thanks.


Shinyboy
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Postby Shinyboy » Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:35 pm

Well, I got frisky and pulled the cover off the speaker. Snapped some of the mount tabs so I'll have to order another cover (luckily they're only $5 from courtesy). Sure enough, the center cap on the cone (over the voice coil) had started to separate from the cone. Read a few threads on some audio forums and decided to try some RTV silicone. Hopefully it works, it looks like a bitch to take all the trim panels off to get to the whole unit.

ocdjg
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Postby ocdjg » Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:51 pm

Shinyboy wrote:Well, I got frisky and pulled the cover off the speaker. Snapped some of the mount tabs so I'll have to order another cover (luckily they're only $5 from courtesy). Sure enough, the center cap on the cone (over the voice coil) had started to separate from the cone. Read a few threads on some audio forums and decided to try some RTV silicone. Hopefully it works, it looks like a bitch to take all the trim panels off to get to the whole unit.
Hey can you take some pics of the sub and of your trunk with the panel off?

Shinyboy
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Postby Shinyboy » Fri Jun 18, 2010 1:57 pm

Sure, on my way.

Shinyboy
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Postby Shinyboy » Fri Jun 18, 2010 2:25 pm

Image

And my masterful RTV Silicone job that worked friggin awesome. I should have used black but they'll be covered so who cares, right? I actually think the sound is deeper and less tinny now with it added. I hope they hold up for a bit longer now!!

Image

ocdjg
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Postby ocdjg » Fri Jun 18, 2010 3:32 pm

Dude you are the man thanks. So the LE body panel in the back is different from my SE one. Good to know.

Nice work on the repair job. How do they sound?

Shinyboy
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Postby Shinyboy » Fri Jun 18, 2010 4:12 pm

The repair worked awesome and i am actually really impressed with the factory systems sounds quality. Yeah, it's still a factory system but Bose did a pretty decent job on it.

What's different on the SE??

Npath
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Postby Npath » Fri Jun 18, 2010 10:51 pm

Shinyboy wrote:The repair worked awesome and i am actually really impressed with the factory systems sounds quality. Yeah, it's still a factory system but Bose did a pretty decent job on it.

What's different on the SE??
How easy does it look to remove the speakers?

Anyone know how much cubic feet the 2 subs use?

Shinyboy
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Postby Shinyboy » Sat Jun 19, 2010 4:13 am

I don't know but I was pretty surprised to see that the "subs" were only a pair of 5" speakers. Why not use one 8 or 10? I know Bose can do some amazing stuff with sound and frankly it sounds pretty good but I think a larger diameter speaker would have gotten stressed a lot less while producing the same amount of sound.

On topic: I think the speakers would be a bitch to get out without removing that entire wheel well trim panel. Which sucks, because just from my couple minutes investigating looks like a fairly big PITA job. The reason I say this is because the two mounting screws at the top of each speaker are buried up under the trim and I doubt you could get a wrench on them without destroying the speaker. But, if you were going to replace them, that might not be a huge deal..but once you've committed to that route, you're in it to win it

Terrible design really, they should have centered them for ease of use/work. Since I was in there I would have loved to put some higher end speakers in the enclosure so I didn't have to worry about this so much again. :lol: :lol:
Last edited by Shinyboy on Sat Jun 19, 2010 4:19 am, edited 2 times in total.

Shinyboy
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Postby Shinyboy » Sat Jun 19, 2010 4:16 am

Also, FWIW, if you get to pulling the perforated plastic cover off like you see in my pictures, it *will* break. I say *will* because of the mounting tabs that were used to secure it. I'm interested to see the new one I've ordered to see how the hell it goes back together because they weren't the typically flared body mount type taps or metal clips I would expect. They had big mushroomed heads on the other side of the trim making it nearly impossible to remove without breaking. I pried sooooo slow and it was just not happening.

[email protected]
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Rear Speaker Repair

Postby [email protected] » Mon Jan 07, 2013 3:10 pm

I need to repair/replace the speakers in the back of my 2006 LE 4x4. Does anyone have some suggestions or additions to this thread? Thanks.

Mark

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Mon Jan 07, 2013 9:54 pm

It's really not that bad to get the back panel assembly out to access the subwoofer, which is how you are supposed to get to it. You can do it without taking out the third row seat, but you'll need to position it correctly to maneuver the panel up and out of the vehicle. First time's a little tricky, but when you know how to do it, you can get it out in about 10-15 minutes.

The speakers are 1-ohm impedance speakers and they have a square-ish mounting frame that sits down in the subwoofer box, so direct replacement choices are limited. Nissan doesn't sell the subwoofer speakers individually, but only as an expensive subwoofer box assy. You can purchase new speakers directly through Bose Corporation. Another choice would be to send the speakers out for repair. I had contacted Simply Speakers awhile back and they said they had never repaired these specific speakers, they'd be more than happy to look at them if I sent them down. Their speaker repairs are covered by a 3-year warranty. Their site: http://www.simplyspeakers.com/

AMiT
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Postby AMiT » Sun Apr 21, 2013 8:36 am

@smj999smj or anyone else. Could you post a pic of the screws that needs to be removed in order to have access to the rear sub woofer? (A video would be really awesome)

airjrdn
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Postby airjrdn » Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:20 am

Same dilemma...not sure if I should go through the effort of removing the entire panel or not.

If the speaker needs replaced, I suspect I'll have to, but if the silicone fix will do the job, the grill replacement should suffice.

How did you reattach the grill after the fact?

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Sat Mar 28, 2015 5:23 pm

You aren't supposed to remove "just the grille" as it is part of the left side, rear panel. It's really not that bad to remove the panel. The first time I took my time and it took about 30 minutes to remove as I tried to figure out how to remove it. Now, having done it twice, I can remove it in about 10-15 minutes.


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