I used a 5lb mini-sledge with a piece of 2x2 to loosen them up, then whacked it from the back. Popped off no problem. Everything on my truck seems to be rust-welded together (thanks winter...), but these weren't too bad.kev1n wrote:nice work, was it a pain in the ass to get them off ? were they rusted on good ? What about when you did the pads, was compressing the caliper a pain? on my i35 you have to twist the rear caliper back in instead of pusshing it back it.
I've never had good luck with machining rotors. Usually makes more sense to replace, even if its with a cheap knockoff.Budrbean wrote:Im getting ready to do the same because I have the shudder in the front steering when slowing down. The rotors have been cut so Im sure it was just done half assed at some jack leg shop.
Rotors were cheap, $45 a piece from NAPA. I was thinking about going with some Centric Slotted rotors ($90 on Rockauto), but after doing some research, I figured the slotted rotors would only lead to accelerated pad wear. I run OEM pads from the dealer.Budrbean wrote:How much did rotors cost you?
Bearings are a huge PITA. Did em on my 98 civic, and it was unbelievable. Unless you can pull the hub off and take it somewhere that has a huge press. Based on my experience, I would wait until you know they are brinnelling or worn before screwing around with them. They are pressed in, and you can screw more up installing the new ones than just leaving the old ones.Budrbean wrote:I think Ill go ahead and replace bearrings and all while I have it apart.
I stand corrected. CourtesyParts.com has them listed at $138 a pc, Rockauto at $200, they show a difference between 2wd and 4wd....pawjr74 wrote:It appears that the front wheel bearings comes as an assy with the bearing and hub all together and bolt on to the knuckles. Doesn't look like you'd have to press anything together.