Finally did rotors today

**** PLEASE USE SUBTOPICS BELOW FOR NEW TOPICS ****

Moderator: volvite

User avatar
disallow
Site Admin
Posts: 2807
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Finally did rotors today

Postby disallow » Sun Jun 27, 2010 8:39 pm

The caliper bolts were a b!tch, and made more interesting since my 3' breaker bar is still at my brother-in-laws... A cheater bar and my 1/2" ratchet wrench did the trick. Pretty uneventful. About an hour and a half, not rushing.

Had been getting alot of shudder when stopping, and they looked like originals... so it was time. Smooth as glass now. Didn't do the pads, they were still really good, and just replaced last summer.

Replaced with NAPA premium (some chinese knockoff I'm sure). $45, but for the same part from NAPA in Canada, $85.

Gotta love high canadian prices.

Next projects:

Rear Shocks - May pay someone to do this, I can't get the bolts to budge, they probably have to be cut.

Rust on tailgate - will do this myself, just need the time and right conditions (not friggin raining all the time).

Vent control Valve - get rid of that pesky P0455 code.

Other than those things, regular maintenance. Pretty good for a truck nearing 95k miles.

t


kev1n
Posts: 181
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2009 5:04 pm

Postby kev1n » Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:38 am

nice work, was it a pain in the ass to get them off ? were they rusted on good ? What about when you did the pads, was compressing the caliper a pain? on my i35 you have to twist the rear caliper back in instead of pusshing it back it.

User avatar
disallow
Site Admin
Posts: 2807
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Postby disallow » Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:43 am

kev1n wrote:nice work, was it a pain in the ass to get them off ? were they rusted on good ? What about when you did the pads, was compressing the caliper a pain? on my i35 you have to twist the rear caliper back in instead of pusshing it back it.
I used a 5lb mini-sledge with a piece of 2x2 to loosen them up, then whacked it from the back. Popped off no problem. Everything on my truck seems to be rust-welded together (thanks winter...), but these weren't too bad.

When I did the pads, it was also uneventful. The front calipers don't require the 'twist-action', just regular c-clamp. I do remember having to do the twist on my 85 200sx rears, so that must not have changed over the years. I used vise grips to hold the caliper, and a second pair to twist the piston.

User avatar
Budrbean
Posts: 210
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 7:07 pm

Postby Budrbean » Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:50 am

Im getting ready to do the same because I have the shudder in the front steering when slowing down. The rotors have been cut so Im sure it was just done half assed at some jack leg shop. How much did rotors cost you? I think Ill go ahead and replace bearrings and all while I have it apart.

User avatar
disallow
Site Admin
Posts: 2807
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Postby disallow » Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:58 am

Budrbean wrote:Im getting ready to do the same because I have the shudder in the front steering when slowing down. The rotors have been cut so Im sure it was just done half assed at some jack leg shop.
I've never had good luck with machining rotors. Usually makes more sense to replace, even if its with a cheap knockoff.
Budrbean wrote:How much did rotors cost you?
Rotors were cheap, $45 a piece from NAPA. I was thinking about going with some Centric Slotted rotors ($90 on Rockauto), but after doing some research, I figured the slotted rotors would only lead to accelerated pad wear. I run OEM pads from the dealer.
Budrbean wrote:I think Ill go ahead and replace bearrings and all while I have it apart.
Bearings are a huge PITA. Did em on my 98 civic, and it was unbelievable. Unless you can pull the hub off and take it somewhere that has a huge press. Based on my experience, I would wait until you know they are brinnelling or worn before screwing around with them. They are pressed in, and you can screw more up installing the new ones than just leaving the old ones.

User avatar
Budrbean
Posts: 210
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 7:07 pm

Postby Budrbean » Mon Jun 28, 2010 7:13 am

Oh so these arent like old style rotors where you have to take the castle nut and cotter pin out to remove the rotor?

User avatar
disallow
Site Admin
Posts: 2807
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Postby disallow » Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:22 am

Budrbean wrote:Oh so these arent like old style rotors where you have to take the castle nut and cotter pin out to remove the rotor?
Not the fronts... not sure on the rears.

User avatar
pawjr74
Posts: 597
Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:11 am
Location: Gilbert, AZ

Postby pawjr74 » Mon Jun 28, 2010 4:31 pm

It appears that the front wheel bearings comes as an assy with the bearing and hub all together and bolt on to the knuckles. Doesn't look like you'd have to press anything together.

Image

User avatar
Budrbean
Posts: 210
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 7:07 pm

Postby Budrbean » Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:22 pm

disallow wrote:
Budrbean wrote:Oh so these arent like old style rotors where you have to take the castle nut and cotter pin out to remove the rotor?
Not the fronts... not sure on the rears.
Cool...so this is an easier job than I imagined. Now Im itching to do it.

User avatar
disallow
Site Admin
Posts: 2807
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Postby disallow » Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:43 pm

pawjr74 wrote:It appears that the front wheel bearings comes as an assy with the bearing and hub all together and bolt on to the knuckles. Doesn't look like you'd have to press anything together.

Image
I stand corrected. CourtesyParts.com has them listed at $138 a pc, Rockauto at $200, they show a difference between 2wd and 4wd....

t

User avatar
Budrbean
Posts: 210
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 7:07 pm

Postby Budrbean » Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:26 pm

Yeah at that price, Ill wait til they go bad. I was thinking a few bucks for the bearings like the old style with the castle nut/cotter pin

User avatar
Budrbean
Posts: 210
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 7:07 pm

Postby Budrbean » Thu Jul 01, 2010 5:52 pm

Anybody know what size allen socket the caliper bolts are?

User avatar
disallow
Site Admin
Posts: 2807
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Postby disallow » Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:35 pm

Budrbean wrote:Anybody know what size allen socket the caliper bolts are?
mine were 19mm regular hex bolt. Not allen.

t


Return to “2005-2012 Pathfinder (R51)”

cron