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socal4x
Posts: 112
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 7:40 pm
Location: southern california

Postby socal4x » Mon Jan 21, 2008 2:00 pm

I've only had mine for 12,000 miles....fingers crossed.

I actually went back to Nissan after years of owning ford, and toyotas. I had a 91 Pathfinder -- never a single problem in 150,000 miles. Then a Ford Ranger -- a really good reliable pickup, but was leased so gave it back after 3 years and went to Toyota since they get all the hype....Completely disappointed. I got a Tacoma TRD 4x4, had many problems -- seats broke, ac blower out twice, transfer case wouldn't engage, so I traded it for a Tundra, which still was not without problems. The brakes on the Tundra were horrible, and could never be fixed right by Toyota. The Toyota Dealership is a whole other story...they know people fall over backwards to buy their cars, so why should they service anyone?


Gray
Posts: 750
Joined: Sun Aug 26, 2007 12:39 pm
Location: xxx

Postby Gray » Mon Jan 21, 2008 4:34 pm

Fofiddy site flammer...

On Mon Nov 03, 2008 3:03 am
Fofiddy neatly contrived this little piece of writing;

http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=1335

Fofiddy wrote:Hey Brick get a hobby, get a life, and when you come back, and actually know something about the topic you’re blindly yammering about. You have shown consistently that you cannot come up with any facts, simply conjecture and BS and hyperlinks to stuff someone else has done the leg work. In your pathetic attempts to paraphrase others info you get all their facts WRONG. Honestly I think posting to yourself is really cute too, although I speak for more than a few members here when I say: "Enough already". How many posts have you come up with and received 0 replies on? Oh I guess it was just way more technical stuff the guys here could handle, huh? When you’re not sucking moderator butt, and being the resident nonsensical post whore. You misrepresent the forum on other boards, spewing nonsense about like you’re an ambassador.
As for riding brakes and "driving like a girl" if you READ anything about the F-alpha based trucks you would actually know that the FMY Titans, Armadas and the Paths all had rotor warpage issues. In fact FMY Nissans have sort of been notorious for warping rotors since I can remember. Mine in particular were due to anomalies in the pad grooving my rotors (read manufacturers defect). FYI my rear pads are original have nearly 60k and still have 50% life. I suppose riding your brakes causes anomalies huh genius?
Perhaps one day we should get together for a little race, you pick a vehicle and genre 1wd 2wd 4wd; off road, ice-racing, Rally, Drag strip, or time trails? Since you’re such a sexist, I'll let my girlfriend humiliate you since she is more than capable.
Nice work Fofiddy, just new to flamming posters are you?

Better try next time, brah. :lol:

Well yes, you can send your gf though. :P

.
Last edited by Gray on Thu Nov 06, 2008 6:50 am, edited 1 time in total.

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blink32
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Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 6:38 am
Location: World Traveler

Postby blink32 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 6:05 am

Greybrick wrote: I'll pick up the Nissan J and D oils as needed and use the local quick lube place for the change as the labor cost is about a quarter of dealership rates.
The only thing I don't really like about Quick Lube places is they typically don't replace the gaskets on the drain and fill plugs. You can get by on a few changes w/o putting new ones on but eventually they do leak and if the grease monkeys opt not even to put the old one back on then you are guaranteed a leak.

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NVSteve
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Location: Salt Lake City

Postby NVSteve » Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:45 am

blink32 wrote: The only thing I don't really like about Quick Lube places is they typically don't replace the gaskets on the drain and fill plugs. You can get by on a few changes w/o putting new ones on but eventually they do leak and if the grease monkeys opt not even to put the old one back on then you are guaranteed a leak.
I have a small baggie with about 40 of the washers in my glove box, just waiting for the day that I have to venture out and find someone to change my oil again. I still have 2 more years of free changes at the dealer, and am kind of dreading having to return to someone else.

I've used Jiffy Lube (now QLube) quite a bit in the past, but mostly because of convenience. The one closest to me is about the only one that is open on Sundays here :shock: I don't listen to a thing they try to upsell me with, as I keep records of everything & know what has to be done & when. The problem with these kinds of places....well, there are many:

They didn't tighten the filter completely on my g/f's Jetta, which was a real mess.
They've left the dipstick sitting on the upper interior plastic engine compartment rim on my vehicles & the g/f's.
I've scored numerous tools that have been left inside the engine compartment.

They say that they also do a complete inspection of prone-to-failure parts, but never seem to catch anything. The g/f's Jetta was having major idle issues the other night, so I had to drive out and meet her. She wanted to call AAA & was getting pretty cranky that she'll be inconvenienced, etc. I popped the hood and noticed, after maybe 2 minutes of inspection with the flashlight, that 2 of her hoses were shot. One had completely severed. I taped it together then replaced both hoses the following day for $1.83. These things had to have been pretty obvious for a long time, yet none of the QLube people ever caught it.

Anyway, when visiting these minimum wage places, I've found it to be essential to always pop the hood before driving away.

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socal4x
Posts: 112
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 7:40 pm
Location: southern california

Postby socal4x » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:28 am

I would change the oil myself if I had an easy place to dispose of it....

But yes, ALWAYS POP THE HOOD AND LOOK UNDERNEATH....

Things I expect at the quicky lube:

1. They will try to take off the skid plate -- I always tell them "no", use the access panel...(They once completely removed the skid plate and couldn't figure out how to put it back on....????)

2. Oil filter will not be tight ( I have to tighten it properly when I get home ).

3. They skid plate and lower engine skid plate (shrockworks) will be full of used oil spilled out from the filter change ( Have to wash it out when I get home )

But thats what you get for $14.99 ( I buy my own oil). And it doesn't take 3 hrs like the dealer....

I am seriously considering just keeping my oil in a bucket out back (hidden from wife) and then recycling it at the yearly haz waste cleanup.

boogyman
Posts: 519
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 6:04 am
Location: Jersey

Postby boogyman » Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:27 am

socal4x wrote:I would change the oil myself if I had an easy place to dispose of it....

I am seriously considering just keeping my oil in a bucket out back (hidden from wife) and then recycling it at the yearly haz waste cleanup.
You could always take it to the quick lube or gas stations that actually work on cars to recycle your oil. Also Pep Boys will recycle it for free.

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blink32
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Postby blink32 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:29 am

socal4x wrote:I would change the oil myself if I had an easy place to dispose of it....
Isn't it a CA law that essentially all local lube shops HAVE to accept non-customer oil? And a majority of automotive places like Kragen, Pep, Autozone, etc, will accept used motor oil?

What about your town/city? Do they offer any kind of curbside pickup?

Not trying to say you didn't check or anything. Just throwing out ideas. Not sure where in SoCal you are but the last time I was back in Cali I had it worked out so the City delivered an oil drain pan, and a few baggies to put the used filters in. You drain in the pan, put the filters in the bag, call up the company and on the next scheduled recycle day they swap it out for you.


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