The spray-on bedliner I used sprays (or dries) fairly thin per coat, which is the reason why I went with 5 coats. Because of that & all the time involved, most of the coats were all dry when I peeled the tape, which led to my problem. But, if I use bedliner similar to what I used for my sliders, I'd only have to do 1 or 2 coats because you can really glop it on in a thick layer. The liner could still be "wet" enough to remove the tape without the tape & liner being stuck together.AZ_Path wrote:Nice work Steve. This seems like the easiest DIY method to fix the rain channels. If you use the brush method next time as you described, won't you still have the same problem when you remove the tape? Or do you expect the coats to be thinner on the edge and not as difficult to tear?
I've seen some small hair line cracks on mine so I will probably be doing this at some point too.
I'll have to look at the brand when I get home tonight. The problem was that because each layer is so thin, I had to do multiple layers. And you pretty much have to wait until the first layer is dry before applying the next. In the end, the bedliner had bonded real well to the surface of the tape. I'd say that I have straight lines on 50% of the gutters, along with 50% with a bit more jagged edge because it wouldn't let go of the tape. As I mentioned earlier, I could have used a blade to get clean edges, but I simply couldn't see where the edges were under all the black bedliner, and I really didn't want to cut down into the paint.pandarturo88 wrote:Great job, that did you use exactly? i mean the bed liner brand, and the difficulty taking off the tape was due to the bedliner itself right? would it help if you multilayered the tape?
Makes sense. I has a similar issue with I epoxied my garage floor and did need to use a knife to cut the epoxy and allow the tape to be removed cleanly. I agree that taking a knife to your paint is only going to cause more problems.NVSteve wrote: The liner could still be "wet" enough to remove the tape without the tape & liner being stuck together.
Yeah I'm not that nuts. Tzvier and I know each other from another forum (Club3G.com). We were just kidding aroundNVSteve wrote:You could probably get a new paint job for the cost involved in driving out to Salt Lake. But hey, if you guys are nuts enough to do so, I'll certainly lend a hand when you show upFLiPMaRC wrote:What time should we be there?
I can't remember the exact grit I used, but I tore a 1" strip from a sheet I had & folded it up into a little tiny 1/2" wide rectangle. I also used a small wire brush I had that is about as big as a toothbrush, both for scrubbing the gutter & for cleaning all the crap off the sandpaper. It probably took me all of 20 or 30 minutes to sand down both sides. By having a small piece folded up like that made sanding the sides of the channel even easier. I ended up shaping the paper into a an "L" shape so I could sand the side as I sanded the bottom. My only concern was to avoid sanding over the top of the gutter lip instead of only inside it. That's the primary reason I used such a small piece of sandpaper.AZ_Path wrote:How did you sand it? My first thought would be to cut a wood block the width of the channel and wrap it with sand paper. Just curious what you did.