VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 01, 2023 6:01 am

Found these links in another forum, they're for the D40 Navarra but that also used the V9X. The links appear to work:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fymx3z6e499j2 ... 9.rar?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yovkeiee89uxc ... l.pdf?dl=0

Palmer, you might want to get with Noel and see about maybe adding these to the FSM collection.

That australian manual i had
Anyway thermostat is not aviable like ???? went to dealer asked nothing in any warehouse only factory order and when it will arrive they wouldnt know so now i search around ebay perhaps i can track one down from there, mine works fine it aint have any problem but my brain tells me that if i do full overhaul to system then i just cant ignore it and change rest of the parts out and how come that so simple thing like thermostat isnt aviable? it aint some roll royce what we rocking with here

edit: i think i managed to track one down 5-9 days waiting...

Some Europeans order items form american car parts warehouses which are always fully stocked.
Even thought he shipping cost will be higher sometimes it still works out when the price of the item is lower.

turns out even that last place wont get hold of thermostat anytime soon, told them to keep order up and once somehow it arrives to send it, but this is absolutely comical, 2k12 vehicle and can not get thermostat.

yes on ebay and aliexpress there are few listings but they are at Russian Federation and EU has sanctioned them so no sending to my country.... had lil joke with buddies that should tell em to come border and toss it over, then can see me at jail for illegal thermostat importing

seems like it i just do the rest of the stuff then and when ever if even that thermostat arrives i just replace it then.
old one works right now but it is what it is situation sadly.

Okay yesterday did change out waterpump, both idler pulley bearings why bearings? i discovered that those idlers what were sent to me are absolutely not for that car, much bigger and wrong hole diameters etc.... scratched my head looked for idlers nope none of those at sale again but then i discovered i can press bearings out of them, 4x bearings FAG made 4,50 eur piece, tensioner pulley
serpetine belt also firstly i thought alternator clutch is that thing what makes crazy rattling noise but once everything taken apart i discovered that culprit itself were tensioner pulley super vobbely and clearly could hear cracking noise if you spin with finger, idlers were actually fine but i still changed bearings on them. Alternator clutch i would have changed but sadly alternator shaft has no slot to hold it still in order to crack it loose, some alternators have torx or hex bit and with special tool you can hold it still i do have special kit for alternators but instead taking it off and onto table to change it out even tho its not bad yet i decided to skip that procedure this time.
When everything done and tryed to bleed like written on manual, first hours i spotted nothing wrong blowed super hot air front and back, did couple long test drives also no problems, but later that day engine light illuminated and egr cooling code on it, very well since i saw that post about it here when looking bleeding procedures before starting this job i knew that i may have lil airpocket issue somewhere, even tho car held temp fine and did not overheat or anything like that i deleted the code, jacked cars front end high and let it run over an our + also carried out vacume test if you ask why i didnt use vacum to fill system before it is because i had forgotten that i have that kit laying around dementia kicking in at young age...anyway system held pressure very well no single drop after 3mins being hooked.
Now did couple test runs again havent seen engine light yet and hopefully i got problem solved who knows but seems like everything included with fluids on that particular Nissan needs extra attention
and that ascd function code been there since i got vehicle 3,5 years ago, every now and then it comes but i can not discover any function problems with speed holding system etc.

and video is up also incase somebody needs to see how i did it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAEFYRifzY0&t=1322s

Powersteering fluid flushed thru aswell actually did that fill and empty cycle like 8 times total , 1,5l thru now it looks like it should look...

On pics are first 5 cycles

Decided to test out that waxcoating, usually ive been blasting it over with old engine oil + sawchain oil mixture works nicely but it is kinda messy work rather than waxcoating, next spring will give feedback did it survive winter.

Blasted it into all holes what i could find in frame aswell, frame itself ive been cleaning couple weeks ago and coated with metal paint + added extra liquid for strengthening it.

4x bottles of 1l i used for whole underbody, also blasted it into places where i couldnt reach with brush before.

Body itself is absolutely rust free only thing what gets surface rust is frame itself and that reserv tire area, but i did blast it onto body also from everywhere where i could reach.

Before doing it i obviosuly pressure washed all underbody so kinda 85% crap free.

Noxi wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 20, 2023 3:01 am

Decided to test out that waxcoating, usually ive been blasting it over with old engine oil + sawchain oil mixture works nicely but it is kinda messy work rather than waxcoating, next spring will give feedback did it survive winter.

Blasted it into all holes what i could find in frame aswell, frame itself ive been cleaning couple weeks ago and coated with metal paint + added extra liquid for strengthening it.

4x bottles of 1l i used for whole underbody, also blasted it into places where i couldnt reach with brush before.

Body itself is absolutely rust free only thing what gets surface rust is frame itself and that reserv tire area, but i did blast it onto body also from everywhere where i could reach.

Before doing it i obviosuly pressure washed all underbody so kinda 85% crap free.

Looks great!
Nice and thick looking